Šime ide za Amerike (MEX): ahorita & mercados

Planiram da vam svakim narednim blogom objasnim po koju reč ili izraz koji je ili meni upao u oči (tj. uši), ili je deo lokalnog slenga (chilango), a koji ima neku priču iza sebe ili anegdotu. Hvala Rosario na pomoći da se ne osećam kao krava u svemiru ;)

So, the plan is to share a word or expression with each new blog, smth that is part of the local slang (chilango) or I just find it interesting and with an interesting story or anecdote to share. Thanks Rosario for helping me understand what people really want to say ;)

"Poštuj moj ulaz i ja (ću da) poštujem tvoja kola" / "Respect my entrance and I (will) respect your car"

Sad... kad ste u Meksiko sitiju, treba dobrano da se čuvate nekih stvari. Ne mislim niti na narko nasilje, niti bilo kakvu politiku. Ovo je nešto što prodire kroz sve pore društva. Kroz sve klase. I možete sa tim da se susrećete na dnevnoj bazi. Ne bih baš rekao "kulturološka priprema", jer nije jedinstveno za Meksiko, niti mi je namera da podržavam neke stereotipe vezane za Latinsku Ameriku uopšte. Na neki način, shvatite ovo kao reč upozorenja. Da sačuvate živce.

To je reč "ahorita".

Right... when you're in Mexico City, you should take care. I'm not thinking of narco violence, nor any politics. What I have in mind is widespread. In the whole society, through all classes. You could notice it on a daily basis. I wouldn't call it "cultural difference", because it's not unique for Mexico, nor planning to re-emphasize stereotypes of Latin America. In a way, take it as a warning. To keep your nerves.

It's "ahorita".

Ahora (čita se bez h), znači "sada". Srpski ekvivalent rečce je "evo, odmah", "samo trenutak", "za čas", isl.

Ahora means "now". The equivalent of the diminutive in English would probably be "right now", "in a second", "just a moment".

Ahorita označava vremenski period sa jasnim početkom i nejasnim završetkom - ukoliko završetka uopšte i bude bilo. U tom užasno ontološki nekompatibilnom promenjivom prostoru, između sadašnjosti i budućnosti, narednih 2 ili 20 minuta, 2 sata, 2 dana, 2 nedelje, pa na dalje, se nalazi između vas i vašeg posla, obećanja, želje, dogovora.

Ahorita relates to a time period with a clear beginning and an unclear ending - that is, if there is an ending at all. In that terribly, ontologically incompatible ambiguous space, between present and future, next 2 or 20 minutes, 2 hours, 2 days, 2 weeks (or more) is diving you from your work, promise, desire, agreement.

Podrazumeva se da ahorita zaista može da znači "sačekajte malo" dok prodavac razmeni kusur ili kolega pita nešto koleginicu u drugoj kancelariji. Ovaj neposredni čin se najčešće označava gestom koji izgleda kao da kažiprstom i palcem držite nevidljivi kliker, dok su vam ostali prsti skupljeni. Međutim, ako čujete reč "ahorita", otvara se potencijalni ambis pred vama.

Of course, ahorita could really mean "in a sec", while a vendor is getting your change or a receptionist is asking her colleague for an advice. This direct act can be accompanied with a gesture that looks like you're holding an invisible marble with your index finger and thumb, while having the other fingers bended. BUT - if you hear anywhere "ahorita", there's a potential abyss in front of you.

Iz mog iskustva, ahorita je kupovina vremena. Da se proceni koliko vremena treba za nešto da se uradi. Međutim, to takođe znači "sačekaj". Kad će? Evo, odmah. Svi mi koji smo traćili život u redovima, predavajući dokumentaciju i pokušavajući da umilostivimo bilo koja božanstva pred strašnim usudom šaltera, znamo šta da očekujemo. Međutim #2, sačekalo me je malo iznenađenje.

From my experience, ahorita = buying time. To make an estimate in a given situation. Although, that could also be "wait". When? Right away. All of us who spend too much of our lives in queus, submitting documentation and trying to please any gods in order to pass the terrifying destiny at a window / information desk - we know what to expect. Altough #2, I had a little surprise.

Svakodnevno, mnogi ljudi u Meksiko sitiju su jako fini. I fini su kada kažu ahorita. Nisu u fazonu - ko te jebe. Ahorita. Ili ako počne sa ahorita i završi se kasnije sa "biće u utorak", "javite se 2 nedelje", ili kako god. Budite spremni, tu je kvaka.

On a daily basis, many Mexicans are very polite. And they are also polite saying ahorita. These people won't say - I don't care. Ahorita. Maybe it starts with ahorita and end with "until Tuesday", "call in two weeks", or whatever.  Be prepared, that's the catch.

Kaže mi unutrašnji glasić da ne preterujem. Neću da uopštavam, nisu svi takvi, ali ćete se sa ovim sigurno susresti. I upozoriće vas na to. Više puta.

An internal voice tells me not to exaggerate. I won't generalize it, not everybody's like this, of course, but you will encounter this sooner or later. And you'd be warned, many times.

Ahorita + izrečen vremenski razmak često nisu sigurno obećanje. Ponekad to znači "ja se trudim, nisam siguran da li će toga biti, ali ne mogu da vam kažem ne čak iako je NE izvesno". Reći izričito "ne" izgleda da je nepristojno. To takođe znači da možete da živite u iluziji i očekivanjima (i to isključivo sopstvenim).

Ahorta + a time frame do not mean a promise that it would be like someone said. Sometimes, it means "I'm giving my best, not sure will it happen, but I cannot tell you no even if it's NO". Saying "no" directly and clearly seems to be considered impolite. That also indicated that you mustn't live in illusions and expectations (your own).

...

Pijace i prodavnice (mercados, a ako je pijaca na otvorenom, zovu se tianguis).

Markets and shops (called mercados, and if it's an outside market, it's tianguis).

"Jeftinije od mama luće" (mamá lucha - odmila za Lucha Libre, "slobodna borba", meksičko kostimirano rvanje). Inače, 20 pesosa je malo više od jednog dolara, ili oko 140 dinara, a ove bananice su slatke. / "Cheaper than Mama Lucha" (mamá lucha - Lucha Libre, free fight, popular sport). Btw, 20 pesos is about a $ and these smal bananas are sweet.

U prvom planu mango koji kaže "Ne muči se više!" /
Mango saying "Do not suffer any longer!"
Tianguis Polanquito.

Nedeljni "ulov". Novine: koren yuc(c)a (kuvan ima ukus između krompira i kestena), platani (plátanos, plaintains - banane koje se prže), mango, avokado (aguacates), queso oaxaqueño (sir iz Oahake). / One of my weekly "catches". Novelties (for me): yucca root (when you boil it, it has a taste between potatoes and chestnut), plaintains (plátanos, balanas that you need to cook), mango, avocado (aguacates), queso oaxaqueño (Oaxaca cheese).

Central de abasto, Día de los muertos.

Ex-banane. "Please, keep calm, you can look at me, but no't touch. Thanks". Some velvet morning when I'm straight...

"Pažnja: ne prodajemo (samo) 100 grama. Gospođo, čuvajte ruke svoje dece, da se ne igraju sa mojom robom, jer će biti nadoknađena". Upotreba "se la", povratni deo glagola i zamenicu, tj. "će se", "će biti". Izbegavanje imenovanja ko čini radnju. Izgubio sam novčanik vs novčanik se izgubio. / "Attention: we do not sell (just) 100gr. Lady, ming the hands of your children, no playing with my merchandise, it will be payed". Using "se la" (se - reflexive part of a verb, and la referring to the merchandise), avoiding to point at the action's agent. Like saying, I've lost my wallet vs My wallet got lost.

Piñatas!

Jamaica, Día de los muertos.

Piñatas #2. Popularna kultura plus aktuelni filmovi. Još uvek nisam uživo video Donald Tramp pinjate. / Pop culture + actual movies. I still haven't seen a Donald Trump piñata.

Feria de las culturas amigas, glavni trg Zócalo, štand Alžira. Srpski štand je imao pivo od meda (?!), čisto da zbuni buduće turiste koji bi ga zdravorazumski dočekivali u Srbiji (izgleda da ga neko od "zemljaka" pravi). / Feria de las cultural amigas, Zócalo main square, Algiers stand. The Serbian stand had honey beer, smth that I have no idea it existied in Serbia. Another friend reacted the same "?!".

Jamaica, Semana Santa - Svete nedelje, Uskrs / Easter holidays.

Café Tacvba: Olita del Altamar

Šime ide za Amerike (USA): Washington DC 1/4

Šime se javlja ponovo!

Šime strikes agan!

Uveliko kasnim sa blogoreportažama, a razloga su dva. Pre nego što krenem da pišem o aktuelnom Meksiku, zacrtao sam sebi da prvo završim sa prethodnom lokacijom – Vašingtonom (DC). Kako je vreme prolazilo, fotografije su ostajale na telefonu, a hvatala me je mrzovolja da ih proberem i krenem da pišem... (ne mogu da povežem Windows telefon sa Ubuntu kompjuterom, dok se nisam pametno setio da ih sebi lepo pošaljem mejlom)

OK, I know I'm veeery late with this blog reports... two reasons. Before starting to write about Mexico city, my promise (to myself) is to finish US – Washington DC. As times was passing by, the photos remained on my phone, and I was procrastinating in selecting them and starting to write... (I cannot connect my Windows phone with Ubuntu laptop, until I realized I could simply send it to myself via email... dummy...)

Drugi razlog je takođe jednostavan. Kada si negde kratko i osećaš se kao turista, pokušavaš da vidiš koliko god možeš, fotkaš, uživaš... je l', za par nedelja nisi više tamo, pa hajde da iskoristiš vreme što više možeš? Međutim, duži ostanak u Vašingtonu je za mene značio i da „ima vremena“. „Ima vremena“ u paketu sa „mrzi me“ znači da slede četiri nova bloga posle skoro devet meseci! :)

The second reason is also a simple one. When you're somewhere abroad for a short period of time and feel like a tourist, you're trying to see as much as you can, take photos, enjoy... I mean, you're not going to be there in a couple of weeks, so let's make use of it? Well, my longer staying in Washington DC meant „there's still time“. „There's still time“ plus „procrastination“ equals four new blogs after almost nine months :) 

 

Idemo ovako – u narednih mesec dana ću da objavim sva četiri, svake nedelje po jedan. Kao teaser, biće priče o muzejima i galerijama (jelte, mesto za kulturu), obeležavanju Dana mrtvih/Halloween (kao uvod za skoriju reportažu o tome u Meksiko sitiju), zatim sekcija „razno“ sa manje tematskog editovanja, dok ovaj blog pokriva jedan više turistički aspekt – centar i okolina Vašingtona.

In the next month (or so) I'll publish consequentially all four of them, per week. As a teaser, there's one dedicated to art and culture, celebration of The day of the dead/Halloween (as a small intro to a special report from Mexico city), than “misc” section with less editing, while this blog covers a more touristic aspect of the city and it's surroundings.  

Prvo (ide mi ovo nabrajanje nešto danas), bitna razlika. Ima dva Vašingtona u SAD. Jedan je država (gl. grad Sijetl) koja se nalazi na krajnjem severo-zapadu zemlje, tik uz Kanadu. Drugi je grad/država (zato DC – Dictrict of Columbia), koji se nalazi između država Virdžinija i Merilend, na istočnoj obali. Mahom je baš to Vašington koji čujemo u vestima gde se nalaze sve glavne vladine budže, bele zgrade i... štošta još što ćete videti.

First, an important note. There are two Washingtons in the US. One is a state (capital: Seattle) on the fat north-west end, near Canada. The other one is a city/state (therefore DC – District of Columbia), between states Virgina and Maryland, on the East coast. That's THE Washington we're seeing in the news with the government, white buildings and... many things you'll see.

Za početak, sam centar – obelisk i Bela kuća. Capitol je bio u fazi rekonstrukcije, pa mi se nešto nije fotografisao...

To start with – obelisk and the White house. Capitol was being reconstructed, so I didn't find it too attractive... 

Malo istorije – ovaj grad/država je nastao između nekadašnjeg Severa i Juga SAD 1791 godine, zamišljen kao idealno geografsko mesto za politički vrh zemlje. Nekada zemlja Piscataway indijanaca, u toku XIX veka isušivanjem močvara pretvara se u jedan od najreprezentativnijih gradova zemlje. Dosta bitaka u toku građanskog rata SAD je vođeno u okolini (vojno groblje se nalazi tik preko reke, u gradiću Arlington), postoji dosta turističkih tura koje pokrivaju istoriju građanskog rata, kao i glavne turističke destinacije.

A little bit of history – this city was founded in 1791 at the very border of the North (Union) and the South (Confederation), intended as a perfect geographical location for the newly established government. Once a land of Piscataway people, during 19^th century the swamps were drained in order to make one of the most representative cities of the country. Many battles during the Civil war were taking part in the surrounding area (military graveyard is just across the river, in the city of Arlington), and one can find many touristic sightseeing tours covering the history of the city.

Spomenik Martinu Luteru Kingu Džunioru i Linkolnov Memorijal.

Vašington jeste grad vlade, spomenika i nacionalne istorije, odajući jako formalni utisak (posebno u centru). Oko polovina ljudi koji žive u gradu nisu poreklom iz Vašingtona, već su se doselili u potrazi za poslom (što jeste drugi veliki utisak - biznis orijentisan).

Monuments to Martin Luther King Jr. and Abraham Lincoln.

Washington DC is the government city, full of national history and monuments, giving away a very formal aura (specially in the center). About 50% of its inhabitants are not a "native", rather moving in thanks to many job opportunities (which is the second great impression - business orientated).

Katedrala Cv. Petra i Pavla i ruska crkva Sv. Nikole.

Cathedral of St. Peter and Paul and Russian church of St. Nikolas. 

Reka Potomac uokviruje sam grad, praveći prirodnu podelu između District of Columbia i Virdžinije, tj. grada Arlingtona. S Arlingtonske strane, moguće je videti ostrvo-rezervat Teodora Ruzvelta i hodati pešačkom stazom koja se proteže nekoliko kilometara ka severu. Staza (Potomac heritage trail) se nalazi tik uz reku i pruža dobar vidik i avanturu. Važno: od mosta kod Džordžtauna do Chain bridge (6 milja, oko 9 km) nema nikakvih skretanja (osim unazad), sve preko stenčuga, vodopada i šume (da, „iskustveno učenje“).

The river Potomac is encompassing the city, as a natural border between DC and Virginia (Arlington). From the Arlington part, you can see the island/reserve Theodor Roosevelt and take the Potomac heritage trail which extends to the north. Following the river, it provides a nice natural sightseeing and adventure. Warning: from the bridge at Georgetown to Chain bridge (6 miles, about 9km) there are no intersections with other roads, so the only was is straight (or back) across rocks, waterfalls and forest (yes, a true “experiential learning”).

Pogled na Džordžtaun / View over Georgetown

Ovaj nilski konj, pored toga što nije ni blizu Nila, pored Georgetown university ima zanimljivo priču iza sebe. Legenda kaže da je jedan broj njih živeo u reci Potomac i da je porodica Vašington verovala da donose sreću i plodnost zemlje. Na tabli stoji napisano: „Umetnost za mudrost / Nauka za radost / Politika za lepotu / i nilski konj za nadu.“

This hippo next to Georgetown uni has an interesting story behind it. The legend has it that some of them were living in the Potomac river and that the Washington family believed they were bringing fertility and good luck. The board says: „Art for wisdom / Science for joy / Politics for beauty / And a Hippo for hope.“

Ulica, znaci, natpisi... ono što najviše primećujemo :)

Street, signs, messages... things we notice most :)

Problematični Kolumbov dan - Protests against Columbus day

Što da ne - Hokusaijev Talas u Džordžtaunu / Hokusai's Great Wave in Georgetown

Vrata garaže inspirisana Polom Gogenom?! / A Paul Gauguin inspired garage door?!

Fina (ulična) umetnost / Fine (street) art (Phillips museum)

Cold war heritage?

Čišćenje jezika / political correctness or clean-out

Sneg i reka Potomac.

Snow and river Potomac.

Muzička podloga – bendovi iz DC:

Musical background – bands from DC: 

Šime ide za Amerike (USA): Baltimore

Zanimljiv je osećaj kada ste turista da pokušavate da vidite što više, da iskoristite to kratko vreme, da fotografišete da bi zapamtili viđeno (uvek se setim Simpsonovih i foto-safarija Bartovih tetaka gde ljudima satima prikazuju fotografije mesta gde su bile). Tako i ja sad razmišljam da pravim blogove o mestima gde sam privremeno bio, a da sve što je svakodnevica ili 1) nije zanimljivo ili 2) ima vremena kada ću to da okačim. U skladu s tim, evo jednog foto puta (da, i sa muzejima i uličnom umetnošću).

Dakle, Baltimor, Merilend!
...

I find it interesting that when one's a tourist, there's an urge to see as much as one can, to use the short time, to photograph everything to make it part of the memory (I'm always reminded of the Simpsons and extensive photo safaris by Bart's twin aunts). And so I'm thinking that I've been making blogs about places where I've been temporarily, and that all that is connected to the everyday life is either 1) not interesting or 2) there's still much time left to post it... According to it, here's another photo journey (yes, museums and street art included). 

Introducing - Baltimore, MD!


Around the city / po gradu:

Ko nije probao Baltimorsku verziju pola-pola (Half and half, ledeni čaj i limunada, sa dosta šećera, verzija pića Arnold Palmer), ne zna šta je slatko...
Half ice tea and half lemonade with loads of sugar is Baltimore's version of Arnold Palmer drink... enough sugar to levitate!

NE park / NO park

Muzeji - samo dva ovaj put. Jedan je The Walters Art Museum, muzej klasičnog tipa sa kolekcijama iz doba antike (kao i pre-Kolumbovske Amerike), islamskom, srednjevekovnom (evropskom), azijskom i umetnošću od Renesanse ka XIX veku.

Zanimljivo mi je da ovakav muzej istovremeno pokušava da pokrije i deo lokalnog nasleđa, ali da većinski pokriva klasičnu istoriju umetnosti koja je prilično evrocentrična, sa kolekcijama iz Azije i arapskih zemalja. 

Favorit - nekoliko kabineta retkosti, preteča muzeja između srednjeg i XVIII veka, sa kolekcijama retkosti, neobičnosti i čuda živog sveta i ljudske mašte (Laguna je objavila roman koji zahvata atmosferu tog vremena i opise kolekcija: Umetnine i čudesa).
...

Museums - just two this time. One is The Walters Art Museum, a classical one with collections ranging from antiquity (as well as pre-Columbus America), Islamic, Middle ages (European), Asian and arts from Renaissance till XIX century.

For me it was interesting to see that a museum is trying at the same time to cover a part of a local heritage, nevertheless focusing predominantly on classical history of art which is pretty Eurocentric, enriched with collections from Asia and Arab countries.

My favorite: several cabinets of curiosities, proto-museums between Middle ages and XVIII century, with collections of wonders, rarities and oddities from the natural world and human imagination (a nice novel Arts and wonders about the atmosphere of that time and collections).

Takođe, jako inventivna izložba o srednjevekovnim evropskim rukopisima sa fokusom na muziku! 

Also, a very inventive exhibition of European manuscripts with a focus on music!

Seeing music in Medieval Manuscripts:

Muzika kao obrazovanje duše

Pored rukopisa (originala i reprodukcija) i audio materijala, izložba je pokrivala i edukativni deo sa materijalima od kojih su se pravili rukopisi, kao i sa objašnjenjem procesa izrade (primer kože na slici).
Apart from the manuscripts (originals and reproductions) and audio material, the exhibition covered also an educative part with materials used to make manuscripts in the past, with explanations of the process of making (example of leather on the picture).

Delo umetnika, specijalno napravljeno za izložbu - hronologija antičkih pisama.
Site-specific artwork - a chronology of ancient writing systems.

Pored stadiona bejzbol kluba Orioles nalazi se sportski muzej i Geppi's entertainment museum koji sam posetio. Posvećen je popularnim kulturama S.A.D, nekada deo privatne kolekcije (za koju mi je rečeno da je samo jedan deo prikazan u okviru same kolekcije - gde ljudima to staje?!). Ljubiteljima stripa, filmskih plakata, akcionih figura i franšiza, dečjih klubova i dr. će ovaj muzej biti slatkiš. Pokriva i mali istorijski presek stripa, deo istorije grada koja se oličavala kroz popularnu kulturu, kao i razvoja tržišta i industrije koja je proizvodila ova opredmećivanja mašte. 

Multimedijalan, muzej po atmosferi pluta između nostalgije detinjstva, kolekcionarskog entuzijazma i masovno proizvedene kulture / industrije zabave... više kao fanovski arhiv, nego sa kritičkim stavom, prema mom utisku.
...

Right next to the baseball stadium Orioles there's a sport museum and Geppi's entertainment museum which I've visited. Devoted to popular cultures of USA, it was part of a private collection (one that is just partly presented on the exhibition - where are the collectors keeping these things?!). To lovers of comics, movies posters, action figures and franchises, kid's clubs etc, this museum can be a real candy. It covers also a small history of comics, part of city's history presented through popular culture, as well as the development of market and industry which produced these objects of fantasy.

With multimedia, the museum with its atmosphere floats somewhere between the nostalgia of childhood, collectors' enthusiasm and mass culture / entertainment industry... more as a fan archive than with a critical approach, at least what I felt.

Primer pratećeg teksta / an example of the accompanying text; When heroes unite

Milestones: African Americans in comics, pop culture and beyond
Posebna postavka koja je tematizovala prisustvo (ili nedostatak) superheroja koji nisi stereotipni zapadnjaci, zagrebavši pitanje koliko je raznolikost društva vidljiva u njegovoj popularnoj kulturi / A special exhibition that is focused on the presence (or lack of) superheroes which are not stereotypical westerners, just scratching the question of how much is the society's diversity visible in it's popular culture (foto - Storm, X-Man)

Zaključak stalne postavke: U antičkom svetu, Čovek se okretao herojima i izmišljenim epovima da bi objasnio fizički svet. Danas, obraćamo se (super)herojima i nauci (naučnoj fantastici) da istražimo i opišemo svet iznutra - ljudski um. Popularna kultura nam omogućava da odredimo naša verovanja, da zabeležimo i protumačimo našu prošlost, kao i da postavimo ciljeve i snove za budućnost. /
Conclusion of the permanent setting: In the ancient world, Man (pardon, Humans?) turned to heroes and fictional epics to explain the physical world. Today, we turn to (super)heroes and science(fiction) to explore and describe the world within - the human mind. Popular culture allows us to define our beliefs, to record and interpret our past, and to set goals and dream of the future.

I u jednom neosetnom trenutku postavka postaje... prodavnica! /
And at one subtle moment... the exhibition becomes a shop!

I sada - ulična umetnost! Obilazio sam krajeve prilično nasumično oko centra, tako da ovaj prvi deo neće biti koristan nekome ko hoće da zna njihove lokacije (kojih se ne sećam), već kao mali pregled onoga što je meni zapalo za oko. 

And now - street art! I was passing through the center in a pretty randomly order, making this first part not so informative for someone who wants to know the walls locations (which I forgot), rather as a small intro of works that have caught my eye...

Oko centra / around the center: 

Drugu grupu (pretežno) murala sam video zahvaljujući sajtu i radu projekta Open Walls Baltimore. Ovi grafiti i murali se nalaze između stanice Penn, groblja Greenmount i E North ave. Učesnici su iz lokala i inostranstva i oslikavanja su se odigravala do sada 2012. i 2014. Projektom rukovode Station North Arts & Entertainment District i umetnik Gaia iz Baltimora. Za više podataka o projektu, lokacijama i umetnicima, klik na sajt!

The second group of (mostly) murals I have seen thanks to the website and project Open Walls Baltimore. These graffiti and murals and located between Penn station, Greenmount cemetery and E North ave. The participants were local and international, working on producing new artworks in 2012 and 2014. The project is being run by Station North Arts & Entertainment District and artist Gaia from Baltimore. For more info on the project, locations and artists, click the link!

Do sledećeg puta / till next post... lokalni bend:
Animal Collective: My Girls