Šime ide za Amerike (MEX): ahorita & mercados

Planiram da vam svakim narednim blogom objasnim po koju reč ili izraz koji je ili meni upao u oči (tj. uši), ili je deo lokalnog slenga (chilango), a koji ima neku priču iza sebe ili anegdotu. Hvala Rosario na pomoći da se ne osećam kao krava u svemiru ;)

So, the plan is to share a word or expression with each new blog, smth that is part of the local slang (chilango) or I just find it interesting and with an interesting story or anecdote to share. Thanks Rosario for helping me understand what people really want to say ;)

"Poštuj moj ulaz i ja (ću da) poštujem tvoja kola" / "Respect my entrance and I (will) respect your car"

Sad... kad ste u Meksiko sitiju, treba dobrano da se čuvate nekih stvari. Ne mislim niti na narko nasilje, niti bilo kakvu politiku. Ovo je nešto što prodire kroz sve pore društva. Kroz sve klase. I možete sa tim da se susrećete na dnevnoj bazi. Ne bih baš rekao "kulturološka priprema", jer nije jedinstveno za Meksiko, niti mi je namera da podržavam neke stereotipe vezane za Latinsku Ameriku uopšte. Na neki način, shvatite ovo kao reč upozorenja. Da sačuvate živce.

To je reč "ahorita".

Right... when you're in Mexico City, you should take care. I'm not thinking of narco violence, nor any politics. What I have in mind is widespread. In the whole society, through all classes. You could notice it on a daily basis. I wouldn't call it "cultural difference", because it's not unique for Mexico, nor planning to re-emphasize stereotypes of Latin America. In a way, take it as a warning. To keep your nerves.

It's "ahorita".

Ahora (čita se bez h), znači "sada". Srpski ekvivalent rečce je "evo, odmah", "samo trenutak", "za čas", isl.

Ahora means "now". The equivalent of the diminutive in English would probably be "right now", "in a second", "just a moment".

Ahorita označava vremenski period sa jasnim početkom i nejasnim završetkom - ukoliko završetka uopšte i bude bilo. U tom užasno ontološki nekompatibilnom promenjivom prostoru, između sadašnjosti i budućnosti, narednih 2 ili 20 minuta, 2 sata, 2 dana, 2 nedelje, pa na dalje, se nalazi između vas i vašeg posla, obećanja, želje, dogovora.

Ahorita relates to a time period with a clear beginning and an unclear ending - that is, if there is an ending at all. In that terribly, ontologically incompatible ambiguous space, between present and future, next 2 or 20 minutes, 2 hours, 2 days, 2 weeks (or more) is diving you from your work, promise, desire, agreement.

Podrazumeva se da ahorita zaista može da znači "sačekajte malo" dok prodavac razmeni kusur ili kolega pita nešto koleginicu u drugoj kancelariji. Ovaj neposredni čin se najčešće označava gestom koji izgleda kao da kažiprstom i palcem držite nevidljivi kliker, dok su vam ostali prsti skupljeni. Međutim, ako čujete reč "ahorita", otvara se potencijalni ambis pred vama.

Of course, ahorita could really mean "in a sec", while a vendor is getting your change or a receptionist is asking her colleague for an advice. This direct act can be accompanied with a gesture that looks like you're holding an invisible marble with your index finger and thumb, while having the other fingers bended. BUT - if you hear anywhere "ahorita", there's a potential abyss in front of you.

Iz mog iskustva, ahorita je kupovina vremena. Da se proceni koliko vremena treba za nešto da se uradi. Međutim, to takođe znači "sačekaj". Kad će? Evo, odmah. Svi mi koji smo traćili život u redovima, predavajući dokumentaciju i pokušavajući da umilostivimo bilo koja božanstva pred strašnim usudom šaltera, znamo šta da očekujemo. Međutim #2, sačekalo me je malo iznenađenje.

From my experience, ahorita = buying time. To make an estimate in a given situation. Although, that could also be "wait". When? Right away. All of us who spend too much of our lives in queus, submitting documentation and trying to please any gods in order to pass the terrifying destiny at a window / information desk - we know what to expect. Altough #2, I had a little surprise.

Svakodnevno, mnogi ljudi u Meksiko sitiju su jako fini. I fini su kada kažu ahorita. Nisu u fazonu - ko te jebe. Ahorita. Ili ako počne sa ahorita i završi se kasnije sa "biće u utorak", "javite se 2 nedelje", ili kako god. Budite spremni, tu je kvaka.

On a daily basis, many Mexicans are very polite. And they are also polite saying ahorita. These people won't say - I don't care. Ahorita. Maybe it starts with ahorita and end with "until Tuesday", "call in two weeks", or whatever.  Be prepared, that's the catch.

Kaže mi unutrašnji glasić da ne preterujem. Neću da uopštavam, nisu svi takvi, ali ćete se sa ovim sigurno susresti. I upozoriće vas na to. Više puta.

An internal voice tells me not to exaggerate. I won't generalize it, not everybody's like this, of course, but you will encounter this sooner or later. And you'd be warned, many times.

Ahorita + izrečen vremenski razmak često nisu sigurno obećanje. Ponekad to znači "ja se trudim, nisam siguran da li će toga biti, ali ne mogu da vam kažem ne čak iako je NE izvesno". Reći izričito "ne" izgleda da je nepristojno. To takođe znači da možete da živite u iluziji i očekivanjima (i to isključivo sopstvenim).

Ahorta + a time frame do not mean a promise that it would be like someone said. Sometimes, it means "I'm giving my best, not sure will it happen, but I cannot tell you no even if it's NO". Saying "no" directly and clearly seems to be considered impolite. That also indicated that you mustn't live in illusions and expectations (your own).

...

Pijace i prodavnice (mercados, a ako je pijaca na otvorenom, zovu se tianguis).

Markets and shops (called mercados, and if it's an outside market, it's tianguis).

"Jeftinije od mama luće" (mamá lucha - odmila za Lucha Libre, "slobodna borba", meksičko kostimirano rvanje). Inače, 20 pesosa je malo više od jednog dolara, ili oko 140 dinara, a ove bananice su slatke. / "Cheaper than Mama Lucha" (mamá lucha - Lucha Libre, free fight, popular sport). Btw, 20 pesos is about a $ and these smal bananas are sweet.

U prvom planu mango koji kaže "Ne muči se više!" /
Mango saying "Do not suffer any longer!"
Tianguis Polanquito.

Nedeljni "ulov". Novine: koren yuc(c)a (kuvan ima ukus između krompira i kestena), platani (plátanos, plaintains - banane koje se prže), mango, avokado (aguacates), queso oaxaqueño (sir iz Oahake). / One of my weekly "catches". Novelties (for me): yucca root (when you boil it, it has a taste between potatoes and chestnut), plaintains (plátanos, balanas that you need to cook), mango, avocado (aguacates), queso oaxaqueño (Oaxaca cheese).

Central de abasto, Día de los muertos.

Ex-banane. "Please, keep calm, you can look at me, but no't touch. Thanks". Some velvet morning when I'm straight...

"Pažnja: ne prodajemo (samo) 100 grama. Gospođo, čuvajte ruke svoje dece, da se ne igraju sa mojom robom, jer će biti nadoknađena". Upotreba "se la", povratni deo glagola i zamenicu, tj. "će se", "će biti". Izbegavanje imenovanja ko čini radnju. Izgubio sam novčanik vs novčanik se izgubio. / "Attention: we do not sell (just) 100gr. Lady, ming the hands of your children, no playing with my merchandise, it will be payed". Using "se la" (se - reflexive part of a verb, and la referring to the merchandise), avoiding to point at the action's agent. Like saying, I've lost my wallet vs My wallet got lost.

Piñatas!

Jamaica, Día de los muertos.

Piñatas #2. Popularna kultura plus aktuelni filmovi. Još uvek nisam uživo video Donald Tramp pinjate. / Pop culture + actual movies. I still haven't seen a Donald Trump piñata.

Feria de las culturas amigas, glavni trg Zócalo, štand Alžira. Srpski štand je imao pivo od meda (?!), čisto da zbuni buduće turiste koji bi ga zdravorazumski dočekivali u Srbiji (izgleda da ga neko od "zemljaka" pravi). / Feria de las cultural amigas, Zócalo main square, Algiers stand. The Serbian stand had honey beer, smth that I have no idea it existied in Serbia. Another friend reacted the same "?!".

Jamaica, Semana Santa - Svete nedelje, Uskrs / Easter holidays.

Café Tacvba: Olita del Altamar

Šime ide za Amerike (MEX): Teotihuacán

Malo ih je teško videti iz daljine - ne zato što nisu visoke, nego što im je sadašnja boja skoro pa identična sa okolnim brdima i planinama.

It's kinda hard noticing the pyramids from a distance - not because they're not tall, their and the color of the nearby hills and mountains are almost the same!

Mimikrija, zar ne? / Mimicry, no?

Nakon što sam studiozno istraživao prevoz autobusom (ne uzalud - mesto treba posetiti nekoliko puta), na kraju sam otišao tamo sa komšijama koje su imale auto. Od Meksiko Sitija do Teotiuakana ima 48km. Izlaskom iz gradske zone (Meksiko Siti je posebna država-grad koja se do pre nekoliko meseci zvala Distrito Federal - DF, a sada Ciudad de México*), ulazite u okolnu Estado de México sa brdašcima punih šareno obojenih kućica**.

*Čisto da bude komplikovanije, meksikanci koji žive van Meksiko Sitija referišu na glavni grad kao na "Meksiko", a oni su iz... Haliska, Gvadalahare...
**Rekoše mi da političke partije plaćaju krečenje kuća, ukoliko je u boji njihove partije. Zamislite samo kako bi to funkcionisalo u Srbiji...
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After researching for some time how to get there by bus (not in vain - one needs to see the place several times), I visited the place with a couple of neighbors with a car. From Mexico City to Teotihuacan there's 48km. Leaving the city zone (Mexico City is a special city-state which was officially called - just until few months ago - Distrito Federal - DF, and now Ciudad de México*), you're entering into the surrounding Estado de México, with many hills densely filled with colorful houses.**

*To make it even more complicated, Mexicans residing outside the city, refer to the capital simply as "Mexico", while they are from... Jalisco, Guadalajara...
**I was told that political parties are paying for the houses to get painted, IF you do it in the color of their party...

Dođite ujutru, dok sunce još nije jako i nema gužve. Posebno praznicima i vikendima. Ceo kompleks - Zona Arqueológica - je otvoren od 9 do 17č. I, ako je u pitanju sunčan dan, namažite se nekom kremom za sunce. Nema veze da li imate ten ili ne, bićete kao jastozi. Drugi put sam izgoreo u Meksiku zahvaljujući piramidama.
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Arrive here during the morning, before the sun is high and crowded. Specially during the holidays and weekends. The entire complex - Zona Arqueológica - is open 9AM-17PM. And, if it's a sunny day, get a suntan creme. You'll be like lobsters, irrelevant of your skin color. This was the second time I got burned by Mexican sun.

Ako ne dođete rano, čeka vas ovo:
If you're not there early enough, be prepared for:

Ovo je red pri našem dolasku, po povratku se nalazio oko ugla, do iduće stranice piramide... This was the queue upon our arrival, while later it was spreading behind the corner, up to the other side of the pyramid...

Peli su sve svi - stari, mladi, debeli, mršavi, bebe, dva psa... stepenice nisu toliko izlizane koliko sam očekivao od jedne popularne arheološke destinacije (razlog - gornji sloj nije originalan), a jedino pomagalo je vam je uže u sredini. Sjajno za držanje kondicije, samo ukoliko ne stajete previše pri penjanju. Dobro, hajdemo na najveću, Piramidu sunca! (puh, pant)
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Everybody were climbing up - old, young, fat, skinny, babies, two dogs... the stairs were not so frayed as I expected from a popular archaeological site (reason - upper layer is not original), while the only support is a plastic cord in the middle. Great for exercising, if you're not frequently stopping while going up. Alright, let's climb the biggest, Sun pyramid!

Pogled ka Piramidi Kecalkoatla / view towards Quetzalcoatl pyramid

Pogled ka Mesečevoj piramidi / View towards Moon pyramid

Pretpostavka je da je vrh bio zaravnjen (kao i danas) gde su se nalazili hramovi. Pre par decenija je otkriveno da ova piramida ima i unutrašnje prostorije, iako nisu do sada istražene.

Još uvek traju diskusije o tome koja je bila civilizacija koja je podigla ove piramide; arheološki ostaci datiraju još iz Neolita, a smatra se da ono što se može videti danas dolazi iz tzv. klasičnog perioda Teotiuakana (200-900 godina nove ere).

Na vrhu možete da čujete neke neobične zvuke - da li je u blizini zoološki vrt, ringišpil ili se pušta neki film? Prodavci u podnožju koji prodaju glinene skulpturice s kojima možete da pravite zvuk kondora i jaguara. Ne budite naivni kao i ja da date 45 pesosa za malog kondora - malo dalje, na štandovima, košta 15...
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It is considered that the top was flattened (like today) with buildings like temples. A few decades ago a tunnel was discovered inside the pyramid, although it is still not researched well.

There are still discussions about which civilization made these monuments; archaeological findings could be found from Neolithic times, but it is considered that what we could see now comes from the so called Classical Period of Teotihuacan (200-900 AD).

On the top you can hear some odd sounds - is there a zoo nearby, a rollercoaster or a movie screening? It's the vendors in the foothill, selling clay sculptures making sounds of condors and jaguars. Just don't buy a small condor for 45 pesos like me - a bit further, there are stands where you could find it just for 15...

Piramida sunca se nalazi na istočnoj strani, a Piramida meseca na severu, prateći - očigledno - kretanje nebeskih tela. Na kraju krajeva, smatra se da je grad predstavljao uređenje sveta (naziv Teotihuacán znači "mesto rođenja bogova").

Natpisi nisu posebno informativni - nema ih puno, niti vam govore nešto zanimljivo, kao da su izvađeni iz nekih dosadnih stručnih knjiga. "Piramida ima četvorougaonu osnovu, visine xx, sa x soba, x delova..." pa vidim to i sam. Jedino je fino što su napisani na španskom, nauatl i engleskom jeziku.

U sredini se nalazi Avenija mrtvih, koja ide pravcem sever-jug, kojom idemo sada do Piramide meseca.
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The Sun pyramid is on the east, while the Moon pyramid is on the north, following - obviously - the movement of heavenly bodies. After all, it is considered that the city represented the gods' world-making (Teotihuacán means "the birthplace of gods").

Information boards are not so interesting - firstly, there not many of them around, and the texts are rather boring. "The pyramid had a square basis, xx meters height, with x rooms and x parts...", well, I can see that with my own eyes. A nice thing, though, is that they are written in Spanish, Nahuatl and English.

In the middle is the Avenue of the dead, with a north-south axis, which we take to get to the next, Pyramid of the moon.

Zidovi čiji su zidovi zaliveni betonom. Inače, nema demarkacije koji sloj je "originalan", a koji je rekonstrukcija / Walls were filled-in with concrete. Btw, there are no marks indicating "original" and reconstructed parts.

 

Piramida meseca je manja od Piramide sunca i ne možete se popeti do samoga vrha. Na putu od jedne do druge piramide, pored zgrada, imate samo par ostataka, poput murala jaguara i dela uništene skulpture jednog božanstva. Grad je poprilično bio (i ostao) ogoljen po putanju dekoracije*. Pali su mi na pamet antički grčki hramovi - bele se danas, a nekada su bili puni boja...

*Osim Piramide Quetzalcoatl na jugu.

Grad nema zidina niti (do sada) otkrivenih vojnih lokacija. Ostavio je veliki uticaj na kasnije gradove i urbane centre u tom regionu, kao i na civilizacije Maja i Asteka, ovi poslednji koji su "preveli" stare bogove u svoj panteon.

Centralni deo grada je iskopan i restaurisan delimično, dok se okolo nalazi šira zona, gde su ljudi zapravo i živeli. Ove "humke" su najverovatnije neiskopane manje "piramide" ili neke druge profane građevine. Tu se dobro i vide kontrasti između restaurisanih i starih zidova.
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The Moon pyramid is smaller than the previous one and you cannot reach the top. On the way here, apart from buildings, you can see just a couple of remains, like a jaguar mural and parts of an destroyed god sculpture. The city was (and still is) pretty bald regarding decoration*. I had been reminded of ancient Greek temples - white today, colorful in the past...

*Except for Quetzalcoatl pyramid on the south.

The city has no walls or (until now) military buildings. It had an enormous impact on latter cities and urban zones in the region, as well as influenced civilizations of Mayas and Aztecs, the latter even appropriated and translated the old gods into their pantheon.

While the central part of the city is excavated and partially restored, the surrounding wider area is not so much in focus, where actually people lived. These "mounds" are probably unexcavated "pyramids" or other type of civil buildings. You could see well the contrasts between conserved and old, rocky walls.

Ostalo je da vidimo deo kompleksa na jugu i muzej... već izgoreli i gladni, ostavili smo to za drugi put.
Now, to check the part on the south and the museum... but we were already fried and hungry, so let's leave smth for next time.

¡Hasta luego!

Skulpture, keramika, murali i ostali vredni predmeti se mahom nalaze u obližnjem muzeju, Antropološkom muzeju u Meksiko Sitiju i privatnim kolekcijama / Sculptures, ceramics, murals and other valuable objects can be found in the nearby museum, th Antropological museum in Mexico City and private collections

Rekonstrisana palata / restored palace Quetzalpapalotl

Više ovde / more info you can find here:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Teotihuacan
http://wikitravel.org/en/Teotihuacan
http://www.teotihuacan.inah.gob.mx/

Šime ide za Amerike (MEX): Metro

Sistema de Transporte Colectivo - Ciudad de México: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mexico_City_Metro

Postoji od 1969, sada ima skoro 200 stanica i 12 linija (koje svi razlikuju po bojama). Uživam u vozikanju gradom, iako većina linija ide samo ispod zemlje, što ne smeta (videćete kasnije zašto). Vožnja (dokle god i koliko god) košta samo 5 pesosa (=0.28 $, oko 30 dinara). Inače, metrobus je 6 pesosa (obični busevi su od 3).

1.6 bilion putnika godišnje :O

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Exists from 1969, now with 200 stations and 12 lines (differentiated by colors). Enjoying taking a ride, although most of the lines are underground, which doesn't bother to me (you'll see later why). One ride is just 5 pesos (about 28 cents), not related to distance or duration of a journey. Btw, metrobus is 6 pesos (regular buses are starting from 3).

1.6 billion passengers annually :O

Klima većinom ne radi (uspešno), tako da je u metrou često toplije nego na površini. U toku kišne (letnje) sezone, ako pokisnete napolju, imaćete vremena da se osušite do naredne stanice.

Ima zabavljača, prodavaca, prosjaka, mini marijači bendova, mađioničara, bizarnih ljudi koji padaju na polomljeno staklo (koji, po priči, žive na ulici i Bog će vas blagosloviti ako im date novac), slabovidih koji prodaju muziku i/ili pevaju.

Ako ste svetli kao ja, ima momenata kada se osećate kao feta sir u zemlji dimljenog sira, dok vam koža malo ne uhvati boju.

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Air condition often doesn't work properly, so it's warmer underground than on the surface. During the rain (summer) season, if you get rained on, you'll have time to dry up until you get to your destination.

Inside, you can find entertainers, vendors, beggars, mini mariachi bands, magicians, bizarre people falling on broken glass (which, according to their story, live on the street and God will help you if you help them), blind who are selling music and/or singing.

If you're light-skinned as me, there are moments when you can feels as feta cheese in the land of smoked hard cheese, at least until you skin gets some color.

https://mexicocitymetro.wordpress.com/

Ima stanica sa muralima i kopijama arheoloških nalaza na koje su naišli pri iskopavanju stanica (npr. stanice Insurgentes, Bellas Artes, Tacubaya).

Inače, ove klavirske stepenice koje rade po principu senzora se nalaze na stanici Polanco. Trebalo mi je par meseci da provalim da ne puštaju neku eksperimentalnu klasičnu muziku svaki put, već da zvuke prave sami putnici koji šetaju po stepenicama.

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You can find stations with murals and copies of archaeological findings, that were encountered during excavations (for example, stations Insurgentes, Bellas Artes, Tacubaya).

Btw, the piano stairs on the photo with sensors on Polanco station. It took me several months to figure out that they are not playing every time some experimental classical music, rather that the sounds are made by passengers themselves.

 

"Apague su luz exterior, encienda su luz interior" - Isključite svoje svetlo spolja i upalite svoje svetlo unutra.

Policajci se često oglašavaju pištaljakama pri dolasku metroa i pre zatvaranja vrata. Inače, u vreme špica čuvaju ulaz u prva dva vagona koji su namenjeni samo ženama, starijima i deci.

Počelo je kao anegdota, da bi postalo uobičajeno. Žene se često šminkaju dok Miškove meksičke kolege i koleginice voze. Trepavice, obrazi, kosa, usne. Jednom sam video devojku koja je koristila kuhinjsku kašičicu da savije trepavice. Objasnili su mi da je delotvorno. Posle par minuta, u drugom delu vagona, još jedna. Ne možeš da ti ne bude smešno. I pored velike želje, i dalje mi je neprijatno da ih uslikam.

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"Apague su luz exterior, encienda su luz interior" - Turn off your outer light and turn on your inner light.

Police officers are often heard with their whistles when the metro is arriving or just before it closes its doors. During the jam, they are also guarding the entrance to first two wagons, dedicated solely to women, elderly and kids.

It started as an anecdote, to become a regular thing. Women are often doing their make-up while driving. Eye lashes, cheeks, hair, lips. Once I was a girls using a kitchen spoon, in an attempt to bend her eye lashes. I've heard that it is effective. After a couple of minutes, in the other side of the wagon, there was another one. At the beginning, you cannot not to find it funny. I'm still uncomfortable to take pictures of them...

Ljudi su fini, dok ne dođe vreme presedanja u toku špica - teško vama ukoliko dolazite iz suprotnog pravca! Osećaj sardine se pojačava kada umesto "malo ka sredini" kreće takmičenje koliko još putnika može da stane. "Con permiso" zahteva i odlučan manevar.

Iako ima policije, skoro u svakoj vožnji imate vagoneros-e, ilegalne prodavce koji kao da imaju megafon u grlu, kod kojih možete da kupite zaista svašta: CD-ove (muzika, filmovi, učenje jezika), olovke i hemijske, žvake, bombone, hranu (botanas - meze/grickalice), lampice za čitanje noću, knjige, časopise, muzičke slušalice, dobrotvorne akcije... od 5 do 20 pesosa.

Ovi sa muzikom imaju zvučnike u velikim rančevima koji odjekuju vagonima: salsa, rock, pop, rancheras, hard rock, domaće, strano... samo 10 pesosa.

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People are generally nice, until you need to take a ride during the jams - you're going to have a hard time if you're coming from the opposite direction! Feeling like in a can of sardines is reinforced when people are pushing to get inside. "Con permiso" requires also good maneuvering.

Although you can regularly see police at the stations, on almost every ride you can see vagoneros, illegal vendors which seem to have a built-in megaphone in their throats, selling all kind of things: CDs (music, movies, learning languages), pens and pencils, bubblegums, candies, food (botanas - snacks), night lamps for reading, books, magazines, music earphones, charity... all for 5 to 20 pesos.

The music ones have speakers as big as their bag packs, playing salsa, rock, pop, rancheras, hard rock, Mexican, Latin American, international... just 10 pesos.

"No militarización, México no es cuartel" - Ne militarizaciji, Meksiko nije kartel. Linija 3 do UNAM-a, uticaj studenata.

Od Resnika do centra Beograda mi treba oko 45 minuta do jednog sata, a ovde jedan sat samo metroom da stignem do univerzitetskog grada (UNAM) koji se nalazi na sličnoj razdaljini (14-15km). I još uvek niste blizu granice grada.

Jednom sam video džeparenje - gužva pred izlazak, čoveku su iz džepa na grudima izvukli telefon.

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"No militarización, México no es cuartel" - Stop militarization, Mexico is not a cartel. Line no. 3 to UNAM, students' presence is visible.

It take me about 1h to get to the univeristy city (UNAM) on the south, which is about 14-15km away from my place. And you're still not near the edge of the city.

I had seen pickpocketing once - during exiting, a man got his mobile phone stolen from his chest pocket.

Betmen. Pankeri. Svakojaki uniformisani radnici. Ljudi u starosedelačkoj odeći.

Mlađa žena, obično obučena, koja peva, skoro pa operskim glasom, dok istovremeno doji bebu i ide iz vagona u vagon.

Naravno, sve se ovo dešava kada nije dosadno ;)

/

Betmen. Punks. All kind of uniformed workers. People in native clothing.

A women, dressed casually, singing in an opera-like voice, while breast feeding and walking from wagon to wagon.

Of course, these are the days when it's not boring :)

Sin Alehandra Hodorovskog, nastupa kao Adanowsky i obrađuje pesmu Leonarda Koena In My Secret Life (En mi vida secreta) u metrou Meksiko sitija (kao deo dokumentarca Hecho en México).
Alejandro Jodorowsky's son, performing as Adanowsky Leonard Cohen's song In My Secret Life (En mi vida secreta) in Mexico City's metro (part of documentary Hecho en México).

Official DF metro webpage: www.metro.df.gob.mx
Official DF metrobús webpage: www.metrobus.df.gob.mx/

Šime ide za Amerike (USA&MEX): Washington DC 4/4 & Mexico City (Day of the dead)

Obećanje ludom radovanje!

Pravljenje „izveštaja“ sa putovanja je dobar način da se zapamti doživljeno, kao i da se utisci podele sa ljudima. Međutim, čini mi se da ukoliko se to ne uradi dok su utisci još uvek sveži, prošao voz... Posle ovog bloga, s moje strane slede kraći utisci i priče, prema inspiraciji i fotkicama.

Promise makes a fool happy!

Making travel „reports“ is a nice way to memorize the experience, as well as to share it with people. However, if you don't do it while the impressions are still fresh, it's gone... After this blog, Ill be sharing with you all shorter stories, according to inspiration and photos.

Ovde ću da napravim mali skok, između proslave Halloween u Vašingtonu DC 2014. i Día de los muertos u Meksiko sitiju 2015. Taman i uvod u Meksiko, koji verujem da vas sve zanima.

A small leap ahead, between Halloween in Washington DC 2014. and Día de los muertos (Day of the dead) in Mexico City 2015. Great place to introduce Mexico.

Washington DC.

U školici gde sam učio jezik, pored toga što se par profesora/ki maskiralo, bilo je nekoliko ofrendas posvećenim Gabrijelu Garsiji Markesu, Pablu Nerudi i Fridi Kalo. Ofrendas, iliti darivanja mrtvima, su veoma karakteristične za Meksiko u ovom periodu. U suštini, imate male kućne i javne oltare koji su posvećeni preminulima, u ovom slučaju poznatim likovima iz sveta kulture i umetnosti, pogotovo što je Garsija Markes* umro te godine. Pored njih, naravno, postoje ofrendas koje se nalaze na grobovima (podseća malo na naše zadušnice). Ukoliko pomislite na paganizam, niste daleko od odgovora – ova tradicija se vezuje za prehispanske običaje koji potiču od vremena Astečkog carstva.

In my language school, a few of the professors were masked, and there were a couple of ofrendas dedicated to Gabriel Garcia Marques, Pablo Neruda and Frida Kahlo. Ofrendas, or offerings to the dead, are very characteristic for Mexico in this period. Basically, you have small home and public altars dedicated to the deceased, in this case to people from the arts, specially because Garcia Marques died* earlier that year. Apart from these ofrendas, you can find them also on graveyards (reminding me of Serbian zadušnice custom). If your mind recalls paganism, you're not mistaken – this tradition is tied to pre-Hispanic customs dating from the Aztec times.

(* Kako u španskoj, tako i u latinskoameričkim kulturama, tradicionalno postoje dva prezimena – od oca i od majke, tim redosledom. Skontao sam da kada samo kažemo „Markes“, da se to odnosi na njegovo prezime od majke, a da je mnogo tačnije reći oba.)

(* Like in Spain, in Latin American cultures traditionally two names are present – from father's and mother's side, in that order. I've figured out that when we just say “Marques”, it only referred to his mother's surname, and that it's better to say both.)

Moj (nenadani) uvod u celu ovu priču je bila izložba „Smrt je dozvoljena“ u galeriji beogradskog Instituta Servantes 2013 godine, sa ofrendama i kalaverama (kosturi) koje su bile kombinovane sa grafikama Hosea Gvadalupea Posade (José Guadalupe Posada).

My (unintended) introduction to this whole story was an exhibition “La muerte tiene permiso: José Guadalupe Posada“ in the gallery of Belgrade's Instituto Cervantes in 2013, packed with ofrendas and calaveras (skeletons), accompanied with Posada's great graphic prints.

U Vašingtonu DC se dobro mogla videti mešavina između Halloween i Día, oba inkorporirana u rimokatolički All Saints' Eve. Kako je u mojoj glavi Noć veštica vezana za popularnu kulturu, a manje za neki (tradicionalni) običaj, a u skladu sa novim interesom za Meksiko, odlučio sam da posetim tri mesta u gradu koji će zadovoljiti moj apetit.

In Washington DC you could had seen an interesting mixture between Halloween and Día, both tied to catholic All Saints' Eve. As Halloween in my mind is more related to popular culture, and less for traditional customs, and bearing in mind my newly awaken interest in Mexico, I decided to visit three places in the city.

Posle par presedanja metroom, prvo sam svratio do Meksičkog kulturnog instituta (koji sam spominjao nešto ranije). Smrt Garsije Markesa je i ovde bila tema, ali znatno razvijenija i pretvorena u celo jedno malo hodočašće. Nakon penjanja uz starinske drvene stepenice okružene muralima, dolazite do prvog sprata instituta sa svečanim salama. Levo – ulazite u prostoriju posluženi sa kafom, toplom čokoladom i – pan de muertos (hleb mrtvih). Iako su mnoge horor asocijacije legitimne, ipak se radi o mekanom, slatkom hlebu posutom šećerom koji možete da vidite ispod.

After several metro connections, first I went to Mexican Cultural Institute (mentioned earlier). The death of Garcia Marques was also present, expanded and more detailed, almost as a small sanctuary. After climbing the old wooden stairs surrounded by murals, you're at the first floor of the institute, surrounded by gala halls. On your left side – you're entering a room where they were serving coffee, hot chocolate and – pan de muertos (bread of the dead). Although many horror associations are legitimate, still it's a regular, soft, sweet bread covered in sugar which you can see below.

Taj hleb, zastavice (papel picado – cut paper) i oltari su nerazdvojivi od samog običaja.

U prostoriji iza, obloženoj keramičkim pločicama i prirodno osvetljenom gde se često nalaze manje izložbe, nalazio se prvi, manji oltar – ofrenda. Posvećen Garsija Markesovim književnim uzorima i piscima prijateljima, poput Horhea Luisa Borhesa i Vilijema Foknera. Grejući svoje prste toplom čokoladom i sladeći se hlebom, produžio sam do naredne, veće sale gde se nalazila glavna stvar: oltar posvećen i samom Garsiji Markesu.

That bread, small flags (papel picado) and altars are intrinsically part of the custom.

Walking further, in a room covered in ceramic tiles and natural light, there was the first, smaller altar – ofrenda. Dedicated to Garcia Marques' literary role models and friend writers, as Jorge Luis Borges and William Faulkner. Warming up my fingers with hot chocolate and eating the nice bread, I walked to the larger, right hall, which had THE thing – a whole altar dedicated to Garcia Marques' himself.

Da li deluje malo spooky i, na svoj način, bezazleno lepo? O, da. I pored toga što je šarena i fantastična simulacija groba i kostura koji kao da su izašli iz nekog starijeg crtaća (tipa Beti Bup), neka atmosfera se čoveku lako uvuče pod kožu, a mene je usmerila na razmišljanja (i) o mojim preminulima. Smrt nam je na neki način približena, ali bez strave, već kroz puno boja i male predstave sveta živih (na oltarima se nalaze i porcelanske činije sa umanjenim bocama i hranom). Kao da nema čvrste granice između svetova, kao ni straha (da li je to strašno po sebi?).

Was it a bit spooky and, in it's own fashion, harmlessly beautiful? Oh, yeah. Apart from being a colorful and fantastic simulation of a graveyard with skeletons which seemingly escaped from an older cartoon (like Betty Boop), there was an atmosphere that easily could get under your skin, which propelled me to think about my own deceased family members. Death was somehow approached to us, without the terror, rather in many colors and small representations of the world of the living (on the altar you often have small ceramic bowls with miniature bottles and food). It seemed like there were no firm borders between the worlds, nor fear (was that the scary part?).

Svuda oko oltara su se nalazili mali drveni sanduci posvećeni svim likovima njegovih romana čija smrt je bila opisana. Tu se nalazi čak i Remedios, čija je smrt diskutabilna, a koja je na pola puta od groba i plafona. Pojedini kosturi po spratu drže kratke opise Garsija Markesovih romana. Šećer pada na parket. Žamor na engleskom i španskom. Lobanjice od šećera. Kosturi deluju veselo. Sada već u melanholično-kontemplativnom raspoloženju, krećem na moju narednu stanicu.

All around the altar there were small coffins dedicated to writer's characters who died in his novels. You could see even Remedios, whose death is disputed, levitating between her grave and the ceiling. Several other skeletons on the floor carry short descriptions of Garcia Marques' novels. Sugar is falling on the parquet. Murmur in English and Spanish. Sugar skulls. Happy skeletons. Now already in melancholic and contemplative mood, I'm on my way to the next stop.

Odmah pored tzv. Mall-a, centralnog parka, odlazim do Smitsonijanovog muzeja američkih indijanaca (malo više o njemu ovde). Na kružnom podijumu vidim još jednu ofrenda-u, sa par muzičara koji su svirali marimbu (Maya Awal). Okolo se nalaze štandovi sa suvenirima, radionice za pravljenje maski. Dominira Latinska Amerika. Na improvizovano groblje šarena povorka odnosi cveće. Nema isključive crnine. Zatim se postavka menja i oslobađa podijum za ples jelena Yakui starosedelaca.

Right next to the Mall, central park, I'm visiting the Smithsonian's Museum of American Indian (more about it here). On the circular stage in the middle of the museum, I see another ofrenda, with a couple of musicians playing marimba (Maya Awal). Around one could see souvenir stands, workshops, children making masks. Latin America dominates. On the improvised graveyard scene, a colorful procession is carrying flowers. Nobody's in pure black. Than, the setting changes and there was a demonstration of a traditional deer dance of Yakui native community.

Poslednja stanica za ovu priliku je bio bioskop u kome se od 2009, na mesečnom planu, prikazuje the Rocky Horror Picture Show, zajedno sa tradicijom učešća publike, što je bio nezaboravan događaj. Očekivano za ovaj datum, bioskop je bio napakovan ljudima, gde je skoro polovina bila maskirana, najviše u RHPS fazonu. Razlika između publike i „glumaca“ je bila nepostojeća. Megafon, trčanje unaokolo, srećnici sa određenim kartama – napred na binu. Komična takmičenja u simuliranom seksu, biranje pobednika koji će igrati manje uloge. Film počinje. Nije forma u tome da znate tekst pesma i replika, već da ih kreativno izokrenete naglavačke. Dobacivanja u horu. Pojavljuje se na sceni (i ekranu) Dr. Frank-N-Further, i kreće da peva sa njegovom dvojnicom iz prvih redova (koja je btw bolje izgledala od glumca). Za ostale utiske... idite i vidite predstavu.

The last stop was a cinema with a tradition since 2009 of screening the Rocky Horror Picture Show almost every month, with audience's participation, which was a memorable event. Quite expected regarding the date, the cinema was packed, where about half of the visitors were under masks, most of them in RHPS outfits. The difference between the audience and the “actors” was non existent. Megaphone, running around the seats, the lucky ones with certain ticket numbers – onto the stage! Comical competitions in simulating sex scenes, selecting the winners which will play the minor roles. The movie starts. It's not just that you know the song lyrics and the lines, but to re-create them in a bizarre fashion. Choir shouting. Dr. Frank-N-Further appears on the scene (and the screen), and starts to sing with his doube (her) sitting in the front rows (which, btw, looked better than him). For the complete impression... go and see it.

http://www.dcrockyhorror.com

Doviđenja WDC!

Bye bye WDC!

The Space Cossacks: Solaris Stomp

…

¡Órale güero!

Jesen 2015. Planiram neko vreme Día de los muertos u Meksiko sitiju, odlučujem da napravim sopstvenu masku. Kupujem tikvu za koju ne smem da vam kažem koliko je koštala na pijaci. I to kod prodavačice na pijaci Jamaica koja nije skupa, jedine osušene tikve koje sam uspeo da pronađem. Nemam nikakav karakter u glavi (prva greška), nastaje u procesu. U glavi su mi maske od tikvi sa Belih poklada i razmišljanja o festivala u Vevčanima koji je ispratila drugarica Tamara Marković. Dajem nenadanu krvnu žrtvu – posečen kažiprst.

 

Autumn 2015. For quite some time been planning Día de los muertos in Mexico City, decided to make my own mask. Bought a gourd which was so expensive, I cannot tell you why neither why I had spend that money. It was on Jamaica market which is not expensive, but those were the only gourds I could had found. I have no defined character in my mind (first mistake), work in progress. I'm thinking of gourd masks from Bele Poklade custom in Serbia and thinking about the carnival in Vevčani (Macedonia) which my photographer friend Tamara Marković visited and documented. I'm having an unintended (blood) sacrifise – I had cut my index finger.

U gradu opet kombinacija Halloween i Día. Na pijaci kupujem papirnate zastavice koje verno prate tradiciju i savremeno društvo (kostur sa laptopom).

Tri dana traje praznik: subota, nedelja i ponedeljak (28-30). Neki planovi otpadaju, a neki se pojavljuju spontano. Nema provoda uveče, ali sa jednom komšinicom i njenim gostima posećujemo Coyoacán (gde se nalazi Fridina porodična kuća i muzej posvećen Dijegu, između ostalog).

In the city, a deja vu, I see a combination of Halloween and Día. On the market I'm buying paper flags, traditional and modern ones (skeleton with a laptop).

The holiday's on for three days – Saturday, Sunday and Monday (28^th-30^th). Some plans change in the last moment, others show up spontaneously. No evening going out, but with a neighbor and her guests we're visiting Coyoacán (with Frida's family house and a museum dedicated to Diego Rivera, among others).

Primećujem ofrendas koje su društveno angažovane. Jedna govori o deci koja su stradala u požaru svog obdaništa u državi Sonora. Druga prikazuje žene stradale od posledica nasilja i koje se vode kao nestale. Treća jasno predstavlja predsednika Enrikea Penja Nieta koji proždire belog goluba/icu, upućujući sa „+43“ na pokolj 43 studenata (normalistas) iz Ađocinape, tragedije koja se desila u septembru 2014. i još uvek tekuću akciju „¡Nos faltan 43!“ (nedostaje nam 43).

 

I'm noticing socially engaged ofrendas. One talks about the children that died in a fire of their kindergarten in the state of Sonora. The other shows the pictures of missing women and victims of family violence. The third one clearly represents the actual president, Enrique Peña Nieto, which is devouring a white dove, with an inscription “+43” referring to the missing 43 students (normalistas) from the city of Ayotzinapa, a tragedy that took place in September 2014 and a protest “¡Nos faltan 43!” (We're missing 43).

 

Posle toga posećujemo Soćimilco (Xochimilco), deo grada na jugu koji je jednim delom zadržao mrežu kanala i jezera, zaštićenu UNESCO-om, za koje se govori da vuče korene od starog Tenochtitlán-a, tj. Meksiko Sitija pre dolaska Kortesa i konkvistadora. Pada noć i gledamo vatromet.

Afterwards, we're visiting Xochimilco, part of the city on the south which have kept its lakes and a network of channels, protected by UNESCO, for which the people say dates back to the old Tenochtitlán – Mexico City before the arrival of Cortés and the conquistadors. Night is falling and we're watching the fireworks.

Poslednji dan, uspevam da se vidim sa dvoje novih prijatelja – Barbare i Borisa iz Ljubljane koji se, nakon godinu dana provedenih ovde, vraćaju u Sloveniju dan kasnije. Obilazimo ponovo Kojoakan, gde je odabrana Miss Calavera Catrina (kostur Katarina, popularan lik Dana mrtvih). Obilazimo el Museo Nacional de las Culturas Populares koji ima postavku u čast nedavno preminulog strip autora Gabrijela Vargasa. Koristimo priliku da se fotkamo – oni što se pakuju i putuju, a ja da, za promenu, imam fotke samoga sebe. Odlazimo do restorana Mesón Antigua sta. Catarina koji gleda na mali trg sa crkvom, gde mezetimo i nastavljamo dalje, ka jednom od gradskih groblja, koje se zove Panteón Frances.

The last day, I'm managing to see two new friends – Barbara and Boris from Ljubljana who, after spending one year in Mexico, are getting back to Slovenia the next day. Again we're visiting Coyoacán, which had it's Miss Calavera Catrina competition (skeleton Cathrin, a popular character of the Day of the dead). There was an interesting exposition in el Museo Nacional de las Culturas Populares dedicated to recently deceased popular comic author Gabriel Vargas. We're using the opportunity to make photos of eachother – they are leaving soon, and I to have any photos with myself on them. Visiting the restaurant Mesón Antigua sta. Catarina, overlooking a small square with a church, grabbing smth to bite and continuing to one of the city graveyards, called Panteón Frances.

 

 

 

Starinsko groblje koje, delovalo mi je, čak i u ovom danu koji je posvećen mrtvima, čami nekako prazno, sa skulpturama i raznoraznim grobovima. Eto, utolili smo želju da odemo i na groblje.

An old fashioned graveyard which, even in these days, it seemed to me, had been empty-ish, with many sculptures and diverse graves. There, we have been to a graveyard to see the customs.

Kasnije, u sopstvenoj režiji, obilazim glavni trg Zocalo, gde su mi rekli da se tradicionalno nalazi još jedna javna ofrenda. Ništa od toga. Puno ljudi, koncerti. Bogato kostimirani zarađuju koju paru za fotografisanje sa njima, ima svega – od zombi pankera, preko tradicionalnih katrina, do stvorenja iz pop kulture. Nisu na fotkama jer nisam imao sitno :/

Later, on my own, I'm visiting the main square Zocalo, where I was told I could have found a traditionally big ofrenda. Hm, nope. Many people, concerts. Ones richly masked are taking photos for money, you could see everything – from zombie punks, traditional catrinas, to pop culture characters. I had no change to take a photo of them :/

Po povratku kući, stavljam masku u ćošak police i gledam je. Mazanjem boja za lice na tikvu, postigao sam jedan sada već nenadano razmrljani efekat koji sam preneo i na pantalone. A crvena je u međuvremenu postala nekako ljubičasta. Iduće godine neka manje zahtevnija maska.

Upon returning home, I'm placing the mask in the corner of a shelf and look at it. By putting some face paint on it, I've accomplished a (now) smeared all over effect which extended accidentally on my pants. And the red color became purple (?!). Next year definitely a different and a less demanding mask.

Ako još uvek imate neki čudan osećaj povodom Dana mrtvih, pogledajte ovaj kratki animirani video. 
If you still have a restless feeling regarding the Day of the dead, check this short animation.