недеља, 1. новембар 2015.

Šime ide za Amerike (USA): Washington DC 2/4 museums


Muzeji deo 1
Museums part 1

U samom istorijskom centru Vašingtona, oko glavnog pravougaonog parka zvanog National mall, koji ide od od Vašingtonovog obeliska do Kapitola, nalazi se pregršt muzeja Smitsonijanovog instituta. Obišao sam ih... skoro polovinu :) Zapravo, ceo kompleks sadrži 19 muzeja, 8 istraživačkih centara i jedan zoološki vrt, pa sad vi vidite.
Velike i važne kolekcije su mi bile najzanimljivije, kakve retko viđamo u Beogradu s obzirom da su postavke dva najveća muzeja zatvorene zbog (stalno produžavanih) rekonstrukcija i retko koja institucija može kapacitetski da prihvati takav poduhvat.

In the very historical center of Washington, around the rectangular park National Mall, spreading from Washington's monument to Capitol, one can find a bunch of museums of the Smithsonian Institute. I've seen... almost half of them :) The entire complex has 19 museums, 8 research centers and one zoo – enough for a special pilgrimage!
Big and important collections were of primary interest for me, the very ones we don't see often in Belgrade, regarding that the exhibition spaces of the two biggest museums are still closed (National and Contemporary), due to (constantly extended) reconstructions and the very fact that not many institutions have a capacity to accept an expensive traveling exhibition.


U par navrata sam osećao kao da uživo gledam epizode s mojih studija. Pri tome, ceo Smitsonijanov kompleks je BESPLATAN! Umetnost, SAD istorija, Azija, Afrika, svemir... odakle početi?!

A couple of times I was feeling like seeing episodes from my studies – in person. Besides, the whole Smithsonian is FREE OF CHARGE! Art, US history, Asia, Africa, space... where to start?!

Smitsonijanov institut (SI) je nastao na neki način nenadano, kao posledica nasledstva engleskog naučnika Džejmsa Smitsona koji nikada nije posetio SAD, a čiji je američki nećak – naslednik bogatstva – ostao bez potomaka. Legalno je to nasledstvo prešlo u ruke države, dok je Kongres odlučivao nekoliko godina kako da se ostane veran testamentu pokojnog naučnika i da se njegovim nasledstvom podrži “uvećavanje i širenje znanja među ljudima”. 1846 ustanovljen je SI pod direktnim patronatom vlade, radeći i kao naučni centar i ujedinjeni depo raznih zbirki iz Vašingtona i celih SAD, koji su vremenom postale baza za muzejske postavke. Odatla nadimak “državni tavan”.

Smithsonian's Institute (SI) came to be in an unexpected way, thanks to a heritage of the British scientist James Smithson who never visited the US, due to his American nephew – official inheritor – who died without any children. Legally, the whole inheritance became the property of the state, while the Congress had some hard time deciding for years how to remain faithful to the late scientist's will, which asked “for the increase and diffusion of knowledge among men”. And then, in 1846, SI was founded under the direct patronage of the government, working both as a science center and united deposit of various collections from Washington and the whole US, which over time have become the basis for museums' collections. Therefore “the national attic” nickname.

(pored SI, uvodim još jednu skraćenicu – WDC za Washington, DC)

O istorijatu, muzejima i dr više na Vikipediji (fin pregled) i zvaničnoj stranici SI. Pokušaću da dam kratak pregled svakog muzeja, uz linkove i reference na izložbe koje sam video.

(apart from the SI, I'm introducing another abbreviation – WDC for Washington DC)

On the history, museums and other useful info, check the Wiki page and the official website of the SI. I'm going to try to make a short overview of each of the museums I had visited, with links and by referencing exhibitions I saw. 
 


Iako otvoren tek 2004, koreni ovog muzeja se nalaze u njujorškom Museum of the American Indian koji je formiran 1916, a kasnije pripojen SI. Danas postoji u vidu tri institucija – muzeji u WDC i NY, kao i centar u državi Merilend.

Although opened in 2004, the roots of this museum are in the New York's Museum of the American Indian formed in 1916, later added to the SI complex. Today it exists via three institutions – museums in WDC and NY, as well as a center in the state of Maryland.

Diné - "beauty"
 (klik za veće fotografije - click on the photos for zoom)

Kome je posvećen? Ovde direktno ulazimo u etimologiju i krajnje političko pitanje ko koga opredstavlja... „Američki indijanci“ je čupav termin, zasnovan na pogrešnoj pretpostavci da su Kristofer Kolumbo i prvi istraživači/kolonizatori otkrili kraći put do Indije. Ustaljen naziv na engleskom je „Native American“, označavajući ljude sa prekolumbijskim korenima. „Starosedeoci“ mi se na srpskom čini kao najbolji prevod, a alternativni izraz – odomaćen u Kanadi – je „First Nations“ - Prve nacije. U suštini, radi ispravljanja istorijske nepravde i razjašnjavanja nedoumica, savetuje se korišćenje izraza koje koriste sami članovi naroda (ustaljena imena su najčešće dolazila od suseda ili neprijateljske grupe, često sa omalovažavajućim značenjem ili tonom).

To what or to whom is this museum dedicated? Here we're entering into etymology discussions and a political question of representation... “American Indians” is a outdated term, based on a misguided assumption that Columbus and the first explorers/colonizers actually discovered the shorter route to India. A widely accepted term is “Native Americans”, targeting all the people with pre-Columbian ancestry, while in Canada they use “First Nations”. In fact, to face the historical errors and clear any misinterpretations, it's advised to use the names that the nation itself is using when addressing its collective (the popular names were mostly coming from neighbors or enemy nations, therefore with a negative meaning or tone).

Više na opsežnoj stranici Vikipedije / more on Wiki's extensive page: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Native_Americans_in_the_United_States

Deo zastava svih starosedelačkih nacija / part of the flags of Native Americans' nations

Vezano za ovaj muzej, vođe starosedelaca su oštro reagovale na otkrivanje činjenice da je SI posedovao 12-18.000 ostataka njihovih predaka koji su se nalazili u depoima. Krajem '80-tih godina XX veka, donet je akt kojim se istovremeno formira muzej „kao živi memorijal američkim starosedeocima i njihovim tradicijama“ i sprovodi repatrijacija ljudskih ostataka, svetih i predmeta kulturne baštine, od kojih je 1/3 bila vraćena. Inauguracija ovog muzeja je bio povod za, do tada, najveće okupljanje starosedelaca Amerike, kao i uključivanje same zajednice u očuvanje i promociju svoje baštine.
Ovu neobičnu zgradu su projektovale arhitekte Daglas Kardinal i Džonpol Džons, zajedno sa i drugim umetnicima koji pripadaju starosedelačkim zajednicama, koji su doprineli izgledu muzeja bez oštrih uglova, sa puno kružnih elemenata, pejzažnom arhitekturom i „kasota“ krečnjakom, da bi veza sa prirodnim elementima bila prisutna konceptualno i vizuelno.

Returning to this museum, the Native Americans' leaders were protesting upon discovering that the SI possessed between 12 and 18.000 remains of their ancestors, all packed in storages. In late 80s, an act regulated the formation of the new museum, as a “living memorial to Native Americans and their traditions”, as well as the process of repatriation of human remains, sacred and cultural heritage objects (1/3 was repatriated). The inauguration of the museum was a reason for a gathering, the largest one until that moment, of Native Americans (US, Alaska and Hawaii), as well as a cause to include the community itself in protecting and promoting its heritage.
This quite unusual building was the project or architects Douglas Cardinal and Johnpaul Jones who, together with other Native American artists, designed a building without any sharp angles, with many round and circle elements, landscaping and Kasota limestone, to emphasize the connection with natural elements, both visually and conceptually.


Iako daleko od kritika, najviše zbog svojih postavki i pitanja kako su (i koje) starosedelačke nacije predstavljene, moj utisak je bio krajnje pozitivan. S jedne strane, činilo mi se da u tom trenutku nije bilo ni jedne postavke koja je pokušavala da sve različite starosedelačke nacije stavi pod jedan isti koš. Stekao sam utisak da se kroz izložbe obrađuju različiti aspekti društva, tradicije, religije, života, uz blisku saradnju sa samim starosedeocima. Ovde se direktan rad sa samim korisnicima i „predmetom“ izlaganja koji uzimaju učešća u odlukama i sopstvenom predstavljanju pretvara u etičko i otvorenije kustosko rešenje (primer – vodič kroz stalnu postavku je bio kečua iz Bolivije). Takođe, nemoguće je predstaviti sve zajednice odjednom, čak i u tako velikoj zgradi muzeja. Ono što posetioci mogu da vide su privremene i pojedine priče koje se smenjuju i doprinose postepenoj vidljivosti starosedelačkih nacija.

Although not without criticisms, mostly dealing with museum's displays and questions of representation (who and how), my impressions was generally positive. On the one hand, I think that none of the exhibitions was trying to convey a unifying message and put all the nations under one tag. Exhibitions were paying attention to different aspects of society, tradition, religion, life, with a close cooperation with the communities themselves. Here one can see that the direct work with the “users” themselves and “objects” of display, who are taking part in decisions and their own representation, turns into a ethical and an open curatorial solution (example – our guide was a Quechua man from Bolivia). Also, even in the building that big, one cannot represent all the nations. What visitors can see are temporary and partial stories which are changing, contributing to a gradual visibility of the Native Americans.



S druge strane, otvoren je prostor za izložbe koje su usmerene više ka savremenosti – životima pojedinih zajednica, zanatima i dr, kao i kritičkom stavu – npr. diskusija o identitetu (izložba Our lives: contemporary life and identities) i istorijskim sporazumima (i kršenjima istih) između vlade SAD i starosedelaca (Nation to Nation: Treaties Between the United States and American Indian Nations).

Za Dan mrtvih / Halloween / Día de los muertos, muzej je organizovao specijalne događaje – od radionica do koncerata/demonstracija rituala, koji su ovog puta tematizovali običaje starosedelaca južno od SAD.

On the other hand, there is a space for exhibitions which are focused more to contemporary issues – the lives of specific communities, crafts, among others, as well with a critical edge – for example, discussing identities (Our lives: contemporary life and identities) and historical treaties (and their breaches) between the US government and Native Americans (Nation to Nation: Treaties Between the United States and American Indian Nations).

For Halloween / Día de los muertos, the museum organized special events – from workshops to concerts and demonstrations of certain rituals, this time focusing on indigenous communities south of the US. 

"Izložba je o tome ko smo danas" / "This exhibition is about who we are today"


"Fully native" / ko su starosedeoci? (pitanje identiteta)

Día de los muertos
P.S.




Freer and Sackler gallery of Smithsonian

Obe galerije čine azijski deo Smitsonijana, i bile su privatne donacije SI (proizvođača automobila Čarlsa Langa Frira i Dr. Artura Mičela Seklera). Iako odvojene kao institucije, fizički su povezane – Freer se nalazi okrenut ka National mall, kao prizemna zgrada, dok se Sackler nalazi tačno ispod, u jednom momentu povezujući se ispod zemlje sa afričkim muzejem (o kojem nešto kasnije) i izlazeći napolje u vidu jednog paviljona.

Both galleries are the Asian part of the SI, and were private donations (of car industrialist Charles Lang Freer and dr Arthur Mitchell Sackler). Although separated administrativelly, they are connected physically – Freer is in a ground building open towards the National mall, while Sackler is right underneath it, being connected with the African museum and surfacing out as a small pavilion.
Freer poseduje veliku zbirku koja se, geografski, proteže od Japan do Sirije, sa posebnim naglaskom na SAD recepciju tzv. japanizma – fascinacijom japanskom umetnošću od strane zapadnjačkih umetnika, što je bilo posebno izraženo krajem XIX veka. U tom ključu, moguće je videti dosta radova Vislera (James Abbott McNeill Whistler) i Paunovu sobu (Peacock room), londonsku trpezariju koju je Visler oslikao i koja je bila kompletno fizički premeštena u ovaj muzej.
Sackler kolekcija obuhvata par zbirki, pored donatorove, koje pokrivaju slični gegrafski pojas. Jedna koja mi je zapala za oko je bila Feast Your Eyes: A Taste for Luxury in Ancient Iran (na fotografijama), možda zahvaljujući kevinim knjigama i pričama dok je radila u Iranu. Obe galerije imaju prisutan šmek privatnog kolekcionarstva, a povremeno poseduju i dubinu kolekcije koja, na tipično muzejski način, predstavlja pregled – materijala, objekta ili kulture.

Freer has a great collection which geographically stretches from Japan to Syria, with a special emphasis on the US reception of japonisme – a fascination with Japanese art by western artists, present in the late 19th century. That's how the museum exhibits a lot of artworks of James Abbott McNeil Whistler and the Peacock rook, a London dining room that Whistler painted and that was physically moved in its entirety in the museum. Sackler encompasses several collections, apart from its initial donor, covering a similar geographical selection. One exhibition caught my eye - Feast Your Eyes: A Taste for Luxury in Ancient Iran (on the photos), maybe thanks to my mom's books and stories when she was working in Iran. Both galleries have a feeling of private connoisseurship, and at times showing the depth of its collections which, on a traditionally museum way, displays materials, objects or cultures.
Ono što zaboravljam da napomenem je da ceo SI ima izrazito turistički fokus, što nije ni čud(n)o. Milioni posetilaca iz zemlje i inostranstva dolaze svake godine i muzeji – svaki na svoji način – teže da izložbama i raznim aktivnostima privuku posetioce, balansirajući između atraktivnih predmeta, umetnika i tema, kao i profesionalnog pristupa (istorijsko-umetnički, etnološki, naučni, arheološki...). Neke diskusije – podstaknute samim postavkama – su mi se činile dosta informativnim, ali bez ulaženja u neke stručne diskusije i akademski jezik. Kako mi je jedna kustoskinja rekla, to je „programiranje“ koje jeste neophodno u radu na toj lokaciji.

One thing that I'm forgetting to mention is that the whole SI has an distinct touristic focus, which comes as no surprise. Millions of visitors from abroad and the US are coming every year and all museums – each one in its own way – are trying to attract the visitors with their exhibitions and events, balancing between famous objects, artists and topics, and professional approach (art history, ethnology, archeology, biology...). Some discussions – triggered by the displays themselves – seemed to me very informative, without entering into professional discussions and academic language. As one of the curators told me, that's the “programming” which is essential for working on that location.


Sada verovatno i vama polako popušta pažnja (kao i meni), ali iako mi se ponekad čini da imam mišljenje o svemu, hoću da prepustim fotografijama da pričaju neku priču :)

I believe that my attention is not the only one which is getting weaker... while seemingly having an opinion on everything, I'd also like to let the photos tell the story :)

Muzej je posvećen modernoj i savremenoj umetnosti (fokus posle Drugog svetskog rata) i nazvan prema umetničkom kolekcionaru Džosefu Hiršhornu; nastaje krajem '60 godina, svega nekoliko godina posle izgradnje Muzeja savremene umetnosti u Beogradu. Oko njega se nalazi velika bašta, koja se proteže na parku National mall. Moj utisak je bio da su veliki deo umetničkih dela na postavci – skulpture. Izbor umetnika me je na momente podsećao na predmet Istorija moderne umetnosti II.

This museum is dedicated to modern and contemporary art (after the WWII) and bearing the name of art collector Joseph Hirshhorn; it was formed in late 60s, just a couple of years after the completion of The Museum of Contemporary art in Belgrade. Around it, there is a great garden, speading towards the National Mall. My impression was that most of the artworks on display were – sculptures. The choice of artists reminded me of my studies – specially the History of the modern art II classes.






Izložba koja mi se dosta dopala – a koju nisam mogao da fotografišem je Days of endless time, koja je kroz različite tehnike, pokušavala da govori o vremenu, u malo usporenijem ritmu. Više na sajtu i fotografiji ispod.

An exposition which stroke a chord with my mood – which was also very well protected from photographing – was Days of endless time, resolving around the notion of time, specially in a slower pace, through different art mediums.





Prvi muzej zvanično nije deo SI, iako je veza između njih vidljiva i malo komplikovana. Formiran kao početna donacija bankara Endrua Melona, otvoren 1941, ovaj ogroman muzej obuhvata celokupnu, tipičnu (da napomenem – zapadnjačku) istoriju umetnosti. Još jednom da povučem paralelu sa mojim studijama – kao da gledate veći deo Džensona, kroz umetnička dela (minus arhitektura), opredmećenog u muzeju. Od Leonarda da Vinčija (jedini u SAD) i Van Ajka, preko Vermera i Rembranta, Van Goga i Monea, do Pikasa, Vorhola, Kaldera...
Zapadno, neoklasicističko krilo zgrade (arh. Džon Rasel Poup) je posvećeno evropskim umetnicima od srednjeg veka, kao i SAD umetnicima pre XX veka. Istočno krilo, više minimalističkog karaktera (arh. I. M. Pei), nadopunjava Hiršhorn, sa svojom kolekcijom moderne i savremene umetnosti (avaj, bilo je pod rekonstrukcijom...).

The first museum on the list is officially not a part of the SI, albeit the connection is present and little complicated. Formed as a starting donation of the banker Andrew Mellon, opened in 1941, this enormous museum encompasses the whole, standard (should I add – western) art history. I need to draw the parralel to my studies again – it's like seeing a greater portion of Janson's book, through artworks (minus architecture), materialized in one building. From Leonardo da Vinci (the only one in the US) and Van Eyck, through Vermeer and Rembrandt, Van Gogh and Monet, to Picasso, Warhol, Calder...
Impresionisti

Kakve boje... Edward Hopper, Cape Cod Evening, 1939
George Catlin, Assinneboine Chief before and after Civilization, 1861/9.


Moje hodočašće je bilo usmereno na Pola Gogena, predmeta mog diplomskog rada...
My pilgrimage was to Paul Gauguin, the topic of my diploma work...


Parnjak ovom muzeju je Smithsonian American Art Museum, koji stoji kao brat blizanac deli zgradu sa National portrait gallery, koji se nalazi blizu metro stanice Gallery Place / Chinatown. Više lokalnog karaktera, obuhvata istoriju SAD kroz umetnost, najviše od XIX veka pa nadalje. Takođe, poseduje kolekcije npr. folklorne, latino i afro-američke umetnosti, kao i umetnost autodidakta.

As a pair to this museum stands the Smithsonian American Art Museum, which, as a twin brother, shares the building with National portrait gallery, located near the Gallery Place / Chinatown metro station. More of a national character, it covers the US history via art, mostly from 19th century. Additionally, it has collections of folklore and self-taught, Latino and Afro-American art, among others.
 
Nam June Paik, Electronic superhighway, continental US, Alaska, Hawaii, 1995


Alexis Rockerman, Manifest Destiny, 2004

U toku je bila retrospektiva Richard Estes' Realism, gde sam prisustvovao i razgovoru sa umetnikom i jednom od kustoskinja. Sećam se jedne scene – u okviru pitanja publike, javio se jedan postariji gospodin, kako se kasnije ispostavilo „zemljak“ koji decenijama živi u SAD, koji je kritikovao umetnika da slika „lepe slike i razglednice“, tehnički fascinantne, ali da se u njegovim slikama ne vidi ništa od savremenog društva i problema savremenog čoveka.

When I visited it, the retrospective Richard Estes' Realism was on display, where I had a chance to attend the art talk with the artist himself and one of the curators of the exposition. I remember vividly one particular scene – during Q&A, an elderly gentleman, who turned out to be my compatriot living in the US for ages, criticized the artist painting “nice paintings and postcards”, technically fascinating, but without any mention of contemporary society and the problems of contemporary people.

Imao sam prilike da slušam... zamalo da kažem predavanje, bolje rečeno nastup njujorškog kritičara Džerija Salca (Jerry Saltz). Govorio je o umetničkom svetu i istoriji umetnosti, izložbama, kritičarima (vrsti koja odumire, kako je rekao), sa dosta anegdota i šala. Imao sam kulturni šok na početku, očekujući klasično predavanje, ali i ovde se videlo koliko je pristup programu za javnost bio s ciljem da bude informativan, stručan, i manje akademičan... mada u ovom slučaju i malo (peviše) kao stand-up. Koliko je to dobro – ne znam; nastup nije bio dosadan.

I also had the opportunity to see... well, not a lecture, better saying a performance talk by NY art critic Jerry Saltz. He spoke about art world and history, exhibitions, critics (a dying specias, as he told us), with a lot of anecdotes and jokes. A cultural shock swept me at the beginning, expecting a typical lecture, but here too I could see how programming public events tends to be informative, professional, and less academic... well, in this case, for me at least, slightly too stand-up-ish. Is this Ok – I dunno; the “lecture” was not boring at all.

Uostalom, prosudite i sami:
After all, see it yourself:

Imao sam ambicije da sve muzeje tutnem ovde, ali prošlo je već dva sata pisanja, i ja i vi zaslužujemo predah. Do nastavka priča o muzejima, još jedan bend iz WDC.
My ambition was to wrap up with all museums here, however after two hours of writing, both of us are in need of a break. Till the continuation of museum stories, another band from WDC.

Ted Leo and The Pharmacists: Me and Mia

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