Šime ide za Amerike (MEX): ahorita & mercados

Planiram da vam svakim narednim blogom objasnim po koju reč ili izraz koji je ili meni upao u oči (tj. uši), ili je deo lokalnog slenga (chilango), a koji ima neku priču iza sebe ili anegdotu. Hvala Rosario na pomoći da se ne osećam kao krava u svemiru ;)

So, the plan is to share a word or expression with each new blog, smth that is part of the local slang (chilango) or I just find it interesting and with an interesting story or anecdote to share. Thanks Rosario for helping me understand what people really want to say ;)

"Poštuj moj ulaz i ja (ću da) poštujem tvoja kola" / "Respect my entrance and I (will) respect your car"

Sad... kad ste u Meksiko sitiju, treba dobrano da se čuvate nekih stvari. Ne mislim niti na narko nasilje, niti bilo kakvu politiku. Ovo je nešto što prodire kroz sve pore društva. Kroz sve klase. I možete sa tim da se susrećete na dnevnoj bazi. Ne bih baš rekao "kulturološka priprema", jer nije jedinstveno za Meksiko, niti mi je namera da podržavam neke stereotipe vezane za Latinsku Ameriku uopšte. Na neki način, shvatite ovo kao reč upozorenja. Da sačuvate živce.

To je reč "ahorita".

Right... when you're in Mexico City, you should take care. I'm not thinking of narco violence, nor any politics. What I have in mind is widespread. In the whole society, through all classes. You could notice it on a daily basis. I wouldn't call it "cultural difference", because it's not unique for Mexico, nor planning to re-emphasize stereotypes of Latin America. In a way, take it as a warning. To keep your nerves.

It's "ahorita".

Ahora (čita se bez h), znači "sada". Srpski ekvivalent rečce je "evo, odmah", "samo trenutak", "za čas", isl.

Ahora means "now". The equivalent of the diminutive in English would probably be "right now", "in a second", "just a moment".

Ahorita označava vremenski period sa jasnim početkom i nejasnim završetkom - ukoliko završetka uopšte i bude bilo. U tom užasno ontološki nekompatibilnom promenjivom prostoru, između sadašnjosti i budućnosti, narednih 2 ili 20 minuta, 2 sata, 2 dana, 2 nedelje, pa na dalje, se nalazi između vas i vašeg posla, obećanja, želje, dogovora.

Ahorita relates to a time period with a clear beginning and an unclear ending - that is, if there is an ending at all. In that terribly, ontologically incompatible ambiguous space, between present and future, next 2 or 20 minutes, 2 hours, 2 days, 2 weeks (or more) is diving you from your work, promise, desire, agreement.

Podrazumeva se da ahorita zaista može da znači "sačekajte malo" dok prodavac razmeni kusur ili kolega pita nešto koleginicu u drugoj kancelariji. Ovaj neposredni čin se najčešće označava gestom koji izgleda kao da kažiprstom i palcem držite nevidljivi kliker, dok su vam ostali prsti skupljeni. Međutim, ako čujete reč "ahorita", otvara se potencijalni ambis pred vama.

Of course, ahorita could really mean "in a sec", while a vendor is getting your change or a receptionist is asking her colleague for an advice. This direct act can be accompanied with a gesture that looks like you're holding an invisible marble with your index finger and thumb, while having the other fingers bended. BUT - if you hear anywhere "ahorita", there's a potential abyss in front of you.

Iz mog iskustva, ahorita je kupovina vremena. Da se proceni koliko vremena treba za nešto da se uradi. Međutim, to takođe znači "sačekaj". Kad će? Evo, odmah. Svi mi koji smo traćili život u redovima, predavajući dokumentaciju i pokušavajući da umilostivimo bilo koja božanstva pred strašnim usudom šaltera, znamo šta da očekujemo. Međutim #2, sačekalo me je malo iznenađenje.

From my experience, ahorita = buying time. To make an estimate in a given situation. Although, that could also be "wait". When? Right away. All of us who spend too much of our lives in queus, submitting documentation and trying to please any gods in order to pass the terrifying destiny at a window / information desk - we know what to expect. Altough #2, I had a little surprise.

Svakodnevno, mnogi ljudi u Meksiko sitiju su jako fini. I fini su kada kažu ahorita. Nisu u fazonu - ko te jebe. Ahorita. Ili ako počne sa ahorita i završi se kasnije sa "biće u utorak", "javite se 2 nedelje", ili kako god. Budite spremni, tu je kvaka.

On a daily basis, many Mexicans are very polite. And they are also polite saying ahorita. These people won't say - I don't care. Ahorita. Maybe it starts with ahorita and end with "until Tuesday", "call in two weeks", or whatever.  Be prepared, that's the catch.

Kaže mi unutrašnji glasić da ne preterujem. Neću da uopštavam, nisu svi takvi, ali ćete se sa ovim sigurno susresti. I upozoriće vas na to. Više puta.

An internal voice tells me not to exaggerate. I won't generalize it, not everybody's like this, of course, but you will encounter this sooner or later. And you'd be warned, many times.

Ahorita + izrečen vremenski razmak često nisu sigurno obećanje. Ponekad to znači "ja se trudim, nisam siguran da li će toga biti, ali ne mogu da vam kažem ne čak iako je NE izvesno". Reći izričito "ne" izgleda da je nepristojno. To takođe znači da možete da živite u iluziji i očekivanjima (i to isključivo sopstvenim).

Ahorta + a time frame do not mean a promise that it would be like someone said. Sometimes, it means "I'm giving my best, not sure will it happen, but I cannot tell you no even if it's NO". Saying "no" directly and clearly seems to be considered impolite. That also indicated that you mustn't live in illusions and expectations (your own).

...

Pijace i prodavnice (mercados, a ako je pijaca na otvorenom, zovu se tianguis).

Markets and shops (called mercados, and if it's an outside market, it's tianguis).

"Jeftinije od mama luće" (mamá lucha - odmila za Lucha Libre, "slobodna borba", meksičko kostimirano rvanje). Inače, 20 pesosa je malo više od jednog dolara, ili oko 140 dinara, a ove bananice su slatke. / "Cheaper than Mama Lucha" (mamá lucha - Lucha Libre, free fight, popular sport). Btw, 20 pesos is about a $ and these smal bananas are sweet.

U prvom planu mango koji kaže "Ne muči se više!" /
Mango saying "Do not suffer any longer!"
Tianguis Polanquito.

Nedeljni "ulov". Novine: koren yuc(c)a (kuvan ima ukus između krompira i kestena), platani (plátanos, plaintains - banane koje se prže), mango, avokado (aguacates), queso oaxaqueño (sir iz Oahake). / One of my weekly "catches". Novelties (for me): yucca root (when you boil it, it has a taste between potatoes and chestnut), plaintains (plátanos, balanas that you need to cook), mango, avocado (aguacates), queso oaxaqueño (Oaxaca cheese).

Central de abasto, Día de los muertos.

Ex-banane. "Please, keep calm, you can look at me, but no't touch. Thanks". Some velvet morning when I'm straight...

"Pažnja: ne prodajemo (samo) 100 grama. Gospođo, čuvajte ruke svoje dece, da se ne igraju sa mojom robom, jer će biti nadoknađena". Upotreba "se la", povratni deo glagola i zamenicu, tj. "će se", "će biti". Izbegavanje imenovanja ko čini radnju. Izgubio sam novčanik vs novčanik se izgubio. / "Attention: we do not sell (just) 100gr. Lady, ming the hands of your children, no playing with my merchandise, it will be payed". Using "se la" (se - reflexive part of a verb, and la referring to the merchandise), avoiding to point at the action's agent. Like saying, I've lost my wallet vs My wallet got lost.

Piñatas!

Jamaica, Día de los muertos.

Piñatas #2. Popularna kultura plus aktuelni filmovi. Još uvek nisam uživo video Donald Tramp pinjate. / Pop culture + actual movies. I still haven't seen a Donald Trump piñata.

Feria de las culturas amigas, glavni trg Zócalo, štand Alžira. Srpski štand je imao pivo od meda (?!), čisto da zbuni buduće turiste koji bi ga zdravorazumski dočekivali u Srbiji (izgleda da ga neko od "zemljaka" pravi). / Feria de las cultural amigas, Zócalo main square, Algiers stand. The Serbian stand had honey beer, smth that I have no idea it existied in Serbia. Another friend reacted the same "?!".

Jamaica, Semana Santa - Svete nedelje, Uskrs / Easter holidays.

Café Tacvba: Olita del Altamar

Šime ide za Amerike (MEX): Teotihuacán

Malo ih je teško videti iz daljine - ne zato što nisu visoke, nego što im je sadašnja boja skoro pa identična sa okolnim brdima i planinama.

It's kinda hard noticing the pyramids from a distance - not because they're not tall, their and the color of the nearby hills and mountains are almost the same!

Mimikrija, zar ne? / Mimicry, no?

Nakon što sam studiozno istraživao prevoz autobusom (ne uzalud - mesto treba posetiti nekoliko puta), na kraju sam otišao tamo sa komšijama koje su imale auto. Od Meksiko Sitija do Teotiuakana ima 48km. Izlaskom iz gradske zone (Meksiko Siti je posebna država-grad koja se do pre nekoliko meseci zvala Distrito Federal - DF, a sada Ciudad de México*), ulazite u okolnu Estado de México sa brdašcima punih šareno obojenih kućica**.

*Čisto da bude komplikovanije, meksikanci koji žive van Meksiko Sitija referišu na glavni grad kao na "Meksiko", a oni su iz... Haliska, Gvadalahare...
**Rekoše mi da političke partije plaćaju krečenje kuća, ukoliko je u boji njihove partije. Zamislite samo kako bi to funkcionisalo u Srbiji...
/
After researching for some time how to get there by bus (not in vain - one needs to see the place several times), I visited the place with a couple of neighbors with a car. From Mexico City to Teotihuacan there's 48km. Leaving the city zone (Mexico City is a special city-state which was officially called - just until few months ago - Distrito Federal - DF, and now Ciudad de México*), you're entering into the surrounding Estado de México, with many hills densely filled with colorful houses.**

*To make it even more complicated, Mexicans residing outside the city, refer to the capital simply as "Mexico", while they are from... Jalisco, Guadalajara...
**I was told that political parties are paying for the houses to get painted, IF you do it in the color of their party...

Dođite ujutru, dok sunce još nije jako i nema gužve. Posebno praznicima i vikendima. Ceo kompleks - Zona Arqueológica - je otvoren od 9 do 17č. I, ako je u pitanju sunčan dan, namažite se nekom kremom za sunce. Nema veze da li imate ten ili ne, bićete kao jastozi. Drugi put sam izgoreo u Meksiku zahvaljujući piramidama.
/
Arrive here during the morning, before the sun is high and crowded. Specially during the holidays and weekends. The entire complex - Zona Arqueológica - is open 9AM-17PM. And, if it's a sunny day, get a suntan creme. You'll be like lobsters, irrelevant of your skin color. This was the second time I got burned by Mexican sun.

Ako ne dođete rano, čeka vas ovo:
If you're not there early enough, be prepared for:

Ovo je red pri našem dolasku, po povratku se nalazio oko ugla, do iduće stranice piramide... This was the queue upon our arrival, while later it was spreading behind the corner, up to the other side of the pyramid...

Peli su sve svi - stari, mladi, debeli, mršavi, bebe, dva psa... stepenice nisu toliko izlizane koliko sam očekivao od jedne popularne arheološke destinacije (razlog - gornji sloj nije originalan), a jedino pomagalo je vam je uže u sredini. Sjajno za držanje kondicije, samo ukoliko ne stajete previše pri penjanju. Dobro, hajdemo na najveću, Piramidu sunca! (puh, pant)
/
Everybody were climbing up - old, young, fat, skinny, babies, two dogs... the stairs were not so frayed as I expected from a popular archaeological site (reason - upper layer is not original), while the only support is a plastic cord in the middle. Great for exercising, if you're not frequently stopping while going up. Alright, let's climb the biggest, Sun pyramid!

Pogled ka Piramidi Kecalkoatla / view towards Quetzalcoatl pyramid

Pogled ka Mesečevoj piramidi / View towards Moon pyramid

Pretpostavka je da je vrh bio zaravnjen (kao i danas) gde su se nalazili hramovi. Pre par decenija je otkriveno da ova piramida ima i unutrašnje prostorije, iako nisu do sada istražene.

Još uvek traju diskusije o tome koja je bila civilizacija koja je podigla ove piramide; arheološki ostaci datiraju još iz Neolita, a smatra se da ono što se može videti danas dolazi iz tzv. klasičnog perioda Teotiuakana (200-900 godina nove ere).

Na vrhu možete da čujete neke neobične zvuke - da li je u blizini zoološki vrt, ringišpil ili se pušta neki film? Prodavci u podnožju koji prodaju glinene skulpturice s kojima možete da pravite zvuk kondora i jaguara. Ne budite naivni kao i ja da date 45 pesosa za malog kondora - malo dalje, na štandovima, košta 15...
/
It is considered that the top was flattened (like today) with buildings like temples. A few decades ago a tunnel was discovered inside the pyramid, although it is still not researched well.

There are still discussions about which civilization made these monuments; archaeological findings could be found from Neolithic times, but it is considered that what we could see now comes from the so called Classical Period of Teotihuacan (200-900 AD).

On the top you can hear some odd sounds - is there a zoo nearby, a rollercoaster or a movie screening? It's the vendors in the foothill, selling clay sculptures making sounds of condors and jaguars. Just don't buy a small condor for 45 pesos like me - a bit further, there are stands where you could find it just for 15...

Piramida sunca se nalazi na istočnoj strani, a Piramida meseca na severu, prateći - očigledno - kretanje nebeskih tela. Na kraju krajeva, smatra se da je grad predstavljao uređenje sveta (naziv Teotihuacán znači "mesto rođenja bogova").

Natpisi nisu posebno informativni - nema ih puno, niti vam govore nešto zanimljivo, kao da su izvađeni iz nekih dosadnih stručnih knjiga. "Piramida ima četvorougaonu osnovu, visine xx, sa x soba, x delova..." pa vidim to i sam. Jedino je fino što su napisani na španskom, nauatl i engleskom jeziku.

U sredini se nalazi Avenija mrtvih, koja ide pravcem sever-jug, kojom idemo sada do Piramide meseca.
/
The Sun pyramid is on the east, while the Moon pyramid is on the north, following - obviously - the movement of heavenly bodies. After all, it is considered that the city represented the gods' world-making (Teotihuacán means "the birthplace of gods").

Information boards are not so interesting - firstly, there not many of them around, and the texts are rather boring. "The pyramid had a square basis, xx meters height, with x rooms and x parts...", well, I can see that with my own eyes. A nice thing, though, is that they are written in Spanish, Nahuatl and English.

In the middle is the Avenue of the dead, with a north-south axis, which we take to get to the next, Pyramid of the moon.

Zidovi čiji su zidovi zaliveni betonom. Inače, nema demarkacije koji sloj je "originalan", a koji je rekonstrukcija / Walls were filled-in with concrete. Btw, there are no marks indicating "original" and reconstructed parts.

 

Piramida meseca je manja od Piramide sunca i ne možete se popeti do samoga vrha. Na putu od jedne do druge piramide, pored zgrada, imate samo par ostataka, poput murala jaguara i dela uništene skulpture jednog božanstva. Grad je poprilično bio (i ostao) ogoljen po putanju dekoracije*. Pali su mi na pamet antički grčki hramovi - bele se danas, a nekada su bili puni boja...

*Osim Piramide Quetzalcoatl na jugu.

Grad nema zidina niti (do sada) otkrivenih vojnih lokacija. Ostavio je veliki uticaj na kasnije gradove i urbane centre u tom regionu, kao i na civilizacije Maja i Asteka, ovi poslednji koji su "preveli" stare bogove u svoj panteon.

Centralni deo grada je iskopan i restaurisan delimično, dok se okolo nalazi šira zona, gde su ljudi zapravo i živeli. Ove "humke" su najverovatnije neiskopane manje "piramide" ili neke druge profane građevine. Tu se dobro i vide kontrasti između restaurisanih i starih zidova.
/
The Moon pyramid is smaller than the previous one and you cannot reach the top. On the way here, apart from buildings, you can see just a couple of remains, like a jaguar mural and parts of an destroyed god sculpture. The city was (and still is) pretty bald regarding decoration*. I had been reminded of ancient Greek temples - white today, colorful in the past...

*Except for Quetzalcoatl pyramid on the south.

The city has no walls or (until now) military buildings. It had an enormous impact on latter cities and urban zones in the region, as well as influenced civilizations of Mayas and Aztecs, the latter even appropriated and translated the old gods into their pantheon.

While the central part of the city is excavated and partially restored, the surrounding wider area is not so much in focus, where actually people lived. These "mounds" are probably unexcavated "pyramids" or other type of civil buildings. You could see well the contrasts between conserved and old, rocky walls.

Ostalo je da vidimo deo kompleksa na jugu i muzej... već izgoreli i gladni, ostavili smo to za drugi put.
Now, to check the part on the south and the museum... but we were already fried and hungry, so let's leave smth for next time.

¡Hasta luego!

Skulpture, keramika, murali i ostali vredni predmeti se mahom nalaze u obližnjem muzeju, Antropološkom muzeju u Meksiko Sitiju i privatnim kolekcijama / Sculptures, ceramics, murals and other valuable objects can be found in the nearby museum, th Antropological museum in Mexico City and private collections

Rekonstrisana palata / restored palace Quetzalpapalotl

Više ovde / more info you can find here:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Teotihuacan
http://wikitravel.org/en/Teotihuacan
http://www.teotihuacan.inah.gob.mx/